Appleton Dance

Ben builds Cluckingham Palace

2011-12-06T15:40:00.001-08:00

As the summer of 2011 waned, Ben began to build a winter home for the chix that had spent warm months growing in the garage. By the end of August, he had a good start on Cluckingham Palace, as Jen named the chix crib. (Photos by AJT and BLT)

Frame

Right side

Left side

Door added

Interior with added run-side entry

Exterior of run-side entry

Exterior with insulated nest boxes and vent window above

Painted interior showing vent window

Exterior closeup of nest boxes and vent window

After clearing brush, and putting up a new fence, by September 19, Ben had the painted coop up on his site.

The run was completed by October 19 and by November 6, Jake was an old hand wrangling chickens in the hen house.

Nice job, Ben.

Sweet dreams, chix.

Tinier totes are great mini-bags for gift cards

2011-12-05T15:24:00.001-08:00

A tinier tote (3.25-inch square) serves many uses:

Ornament
Gift card holder
Gift bag
Doll tote
Party favors
Placecards

My friend Joy T. asked if the tiny totes (Appleton Dance, Nov. 25, 2011) we made for shower favors could be used for Christmas ornaments and I told her the originals were a little too big for hanging on the tree. But I thought Joy's idea was great, so I sized the totes down and made some in the tinier size of 3.25-inch square. The tinier totes make cute Christmas tree ornaments. And the 3.25-square-inch tote size is perfect for presenting gift cards or other small gifts, like jewelry or candy. The small size also makes a great tote for a favorite doll. Made up in holiday colors, the tinier totes can also be used as favors and/or placecards at holiday parties. These tinier totes are very versatile! Use the following information in tandem with the Tiny Totes how-to in the Tiny Totes post (Appleton Dance, Nov. 25, 2011).

Cutting list for each 3-1/4 inch square tinier totes kit:

Bag top: two pieces of the same fabric 5 inches wide by 3 inches long
Bag bottom: two pieces of a fabric contrasting to the bag top 5 inches wide by 2 inches long
Bag lining: two pieces of a third fabric 5 inches wide by 4.5 inches long
Bag handles: two five-inch pieces of 1/4 inch wide grosgrain ribbon, satin ribbon, cording or fabric tube

I changed the proportions of the tote slightly so that readers can use their Scrap Therapy 5-inch-square stash or five-inch Charm Squares to make the totes. Of course you can also use any scraps or full yardage to cut your pieces.

Cut using Charm Squares or Quilt Therapy stash: (5 x 5 inches)
Choose two matching five-inch squares for the lining and choose four five-inch squares in two contrasting fabrics for the bag top and bottom. Cut the squares in two pieces to make a three-inch-long and a two-inch-long stack of four each, then match bag-top and bag-bottom to make the exterior of two different bags (they will be opposite each other in top and bottom bag fabrics, save one set for a second bag). Alternatively, you can choose four different five-inch squares and make a color-block or patchwork style bag.

With fat quarters (good for making multiples): (18 x 22 inches)
If you are using fat quarters, you can cut eight 5 x 4.5 inch squares from one-half of the fat quarter (make the five-inch cuts along the 22-inch side). Then cut two two-inch strips and two three-inch strips from the other half of the quarter and repeat with two more fat-quarters in contrasting or coordinating fabrics. (This will give you enough cuts to make a dozen bags.) Seam with 1/4-inch seams contrasting top and bottom bag fabrics to each other along the 22-inch length of the cuts, press seams open and cut seamed strips into four five-inch pieces. Match up bag parts to make tinier totes kits for 12 bags.

Assemble your bags using the same process outlined in the "Tiny Totes" how-to posted on Appleton Dance on Nov. 25, 2011. Make the following changes in that process:

When making the triangle shape to form the bottom of the bag, measure down only 1/2-inch from the tip of the triangle and sew across the triangle with a seam of about 1-inch in length. Cut the tip off, as shown in the "Tiny Totes" how-to.
When placing the handles on the bag, put the ends about five-eighths inch on either side of the center of the bag top (not the one-inch shown in the "Tiny Totes" how-to).

Tinier totes can be stuffed with tissue paper, lace doilies, or tulle. For a complete how-to-make the totes with photographs, go to "Tiny Totes" posted on Appleton Dance on Nov. 25, 2011.

Baby's first year one-sies

2011-12-04T07:51:00.001-08:00

I just made this for a baby shower. I thought they turned out super-cute and can't wait to see my new nephew in them!

I got the idea from this blogpost on TipJunkie. The download file and instructions are available here as free printable from Parties by Hardie.

I hadn't used the iron-on transfers before and was really happy with how easy they were to use and how well they stood up to the wash. One of them got a little damaged, but I think it looks cool.

I gave them as a gift along with a frame with 12 windows, one for each month's picture. Now all we need is the baby to arrive!

-Alisa

PS - Jenn at Parties by Hardie has lots more neat printables available on her Etsy store. (We used some of the Monkey Baby Shower images at the shower and they turned out adorable!)

Instructions

I used these supplies:

3 sheets of Avery T-Shirt Transfers for Inkjet Printers

12 Precious Firsts ™ Made by Carter's ® Short-Sleeve Bodysuit

These are packs of 4 and come in sleeveless, short sleeve and long-sleeve options. I bought one pack of the short-sleeves in each of these sizes: newborn, 3 months, 6 months, 9 months and 12 months. I loved the long-sleeved ones, but trying to figure out what months would be long-sleeves vs. short-sleeves gave me a headache!

My spiffy HP Photosmart D110 e-All-in-one printer

& my trusty Rowenta Focus iron

Step 1:

Download the file and print the transfers onto the Avery transfer paper. Follow the instructions provided with the transfer paper. I used the inverted images provided in the download file.

Step 2:

Cut out the transfers, stay close to the edge of the colored circle but leave a bit of non-printed white on the edge.

Step 3:

Assemble your onesies by size. I used newborn size for month 1, 3 month size for months 2 thru 5, 6-month size for months 6 thru 8, 9-month size for months 9 thru 11 and 12-month size for finale month 12.

Step 4: Setup an ironing cloth (or a pillowcase!) on a hard surface. Iron the onesie to remove any dampness, then lay the transfer face-down and press with hot iron for 1 minute. Make sure to cover the entire transfer.

Step 5: Let onesie cool for a few minutes and pull off transfer backing. Voila!

Step 6: Wash in cool water (and Dreft), dry on low & touch up with iron.

Tiny Totes

2011-11-25T12:05:00.001-08:00

Tiny totes have a party!

This pattern for a four-inch, Small Treat Tote, designed by Monica Solorio-Snow of HappyZombie, is available free on the All People Quilt website.

This Appleton Dance post describes how we made tiny totes from the free pattern, and gives our recommendations about making multiples of this tote for parties and gifts. We also provide information (at the end of the post) on how to size-up the pattern to make a 10-inch tote.

This week we made three-dozen tiny totes for a happy event, filling the totes with colored tissue paper and individually wrapped chocolates. We added a badge with the party date printed on one side and a picture from the party theme printed on the other side. The badges were made using a purchased PDF from Jennifer Hardie's Parties by Hardie shop at Etsy. We used a hole-punch to put a hole at the top of each badge and tied a badge to the handle of each bag using narrow ribbon.

Cutting list for each 4x4x2-inch, tiny tote kit:

Bag top: two pieces of the same fabric 6.5 inches wide by3.5 inches long
Bag bottom: two pieces of a fabric contrasting to the bagtop 6.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches long
Bag lining: two pieces of a third fabric 6.5 inches wide by5.5 inches long
Bag handles: two six-inch pieces of 3/8 inch wide grosgrainribbon

Note: All mini-tote pieces are 6.5 inches wide. All seamallowances are 1/4 inch. RST means right sides together.

Fabric: This is an ideal scrapbag project because the size of the pieces is small. If you are buying or using your fat quarter stash, you can cut pieces for two bags from each fat quarter, or six bags from three different fat quarters. But if you are making multiples, the most efficient use of fabric would be to buy 3/8-yard cuts (13.5 x 44 inches) because you can get pieces for four bags from each 3/8-yard cut, or 12 bags from three different 3/8-yard cuts of fabric. The only problem with this efficiency is that you will have to pull a 2.5 x 13-inch piece of coordinating fabric from your scrapbag to eke out the final two bag-bottom pieces in this layout scheme.
Here is the process for cutting multiples:

Cut one 3/8-yard cut of fabric in half width-wise to make two 6.5 x 44-inch strips.
Layer the two strips on top of each other and make four cuts of 5.5-inches each (producing eight 6.5 x 5.5 pieces).
Continue by making four 3.5-inch cuts (producing four 6.5 x 3.5 pieces).
Then make three 2.5-inch cuts across remainder of fabric (depending on the width of your fabric, the last cut may not be necessary, or may be just a trim). This will produce six 6.5 x 2.5 pieces, and so you will have to cut the remaining two 6.5 x 2.5 pieces from your scrapbag. Since you have to buy three 3/8-yard cuts of three different fabrics to create 12 bags, you can find a 7.5 x 13-inch piece of coordinating fabric that will provide all the extra 6.5 x 2.5 pieces needed for 12 bags. A coordinating fat quarter will provide the extra cuts for up to ten sets of 12 bags.
Cut all bag pieces, arrange in piles of the same size pieces, and then mix and match fabrics (in sets of two for each bag piece: top, bottom, and lining) to create individual bag "kits".

Multiples: If you are producing multiples -- after making one trial bag to get a feel for the process -- I advise cuttingall bag pieces at once, then pinning all eight pieces (including two 6-inch pieces of ribbon) for each bag "kit" together beforebeginning to sew. At your machine, produce batches of 5-10 bags up until the ironing instruction below. Take all your sewn pieces to the ironing board and press, then return to your machine to finish each bag.

To assemble: RST (right sides together), seam one bag top piece (3.5 inches long) to one bagbottom piece (2.5 inches long) along width of fabric (6.5 inches wide) with 1/4-inchseam allowance. Repeat for second bag bottom and top pieces.

To bag top, pin one 6-inch piece of grosgrain ribbon to(RST, if ribbon has a right side) bag top with ribbon ends placed at one inchon either side of the center at the edge of the fabric. Pin in place. Repeatfor second bag top piece.

RST, place one lining piece over the bag top, covering theribbon ends. Sew along the 6.5 inch width enclosing the ribbon ends in the seam.Repeat for second piece. (For multiples: pin these two bag pieces together and set aside, then start another bag and complete to this step and set aside. Continue for several bags then take all to the ironing board for the next step.)

Press both pieces of the bag with seams pressed to one side.

RST, pin your two bag pieces together, matching seams.

Stitch around all four sides of the bag pieces, beginning atone side of the bottom of the bag lining and leaving a two-inch opening on the bottomto turn the bag through.

Do not turn, yet. On each corner of the bag match the bottomand side seams to form a little triangle-shaped beak. With a pencil, draw a 2-inchline across the base of the triangle, one inch from the point. Pin and stitchon the drawn line. Trim 1/4 –inch from the stitched line.

Repeat for all fourcorners.

Turn bag through hole in lining. Push out corners.

Topstitch opening shut across the bottom of the bag lining.

Push lining into bag, finger pressing seams and top of bag.Steam press bag, if desired.

(This is a slightly different combo of fabrics from the bag in the how-to demo.)

Ten-inch tote: I sized the bag up to a 10-inch tote by re-sizing the "kit" to:

Bag top: two pieces of the same fabric 15.5 inches wide by 8 inches long
Bag bottom: two pieces of a fabric contrasting to the bag top 15.5 inches wide by 5 inches long
Bag lining: two pieces of a third fabric 15.5 inches wide by 13 inches long
Bag interlining: two pieces of lightweight Pellon iron-on interfacing (Iron this to wrong side of bag lining before beginning assembly.)
Bag handles: two 15-inch pieces of one-inch wide grosgrain ribbon

Reusable felt Bridge tallies

2011-10-10T04:54:00.000-07:00

Bridge Tallies

Set of eight, reusable Bridge tallies fortwo-table progressive Bridge party

Here is an old-fashioned item that would make a sweet gift for Bridge-playing friends. This set of eight Bridge tallies can be reused for parties oftwo-table progressive Bridge. Each player writes the score for each round ofplay on a small tablet stapled to the inside of a decorative cover, adds up thetotal at the end of play, and tears the top sheet off, leaving the tallyready-to-use at the next party. These directions include a PDF illustrating the progress of Bridge play to be printed on Avery self-adhesive name tags and adhered to the inside of each tally.

Materials

8 pieces felt 4 x 10 incheseach, any color or combinations of colors plus trimmings and scraps of felt and/oryarn for decorating the tallies (You can get three cuts from each 10 x 12 inchfelt piece if purchased as individual pieces and so you will need three pieces for one setof Bridge tallies. If you are using yardage, you will need 1/4 yard of 60-inchfelt, or scrap pieces as available.)
8 pieces PellonDécorBond fusible facing cut in a rectangle 2.5 x 3.5inches each (round corners)
8 pieces Pellon Décor Bond fusible facing cut in a square 3 x 3 incheseach (round corners)
1 sheet Avery 25395 self-adhesive name tags (8 name tags per sheet)
Post-it notes, preferably with lines printed on the note
Peel & stick acrylic jewels (if desired)
8 short pencils (if desired)

Equipment

Multi-needle, needle felting tool
Large brush-style needle-felting mat
Sewing machine
Iron
Stapler
Highlighter pen

Procedure

1. Decorate each 4 x 10-inch piece of felt using contrasting scraps offelt applied by using a felting block and multi-needle felting tool. Place thearea to be decorated (the bottom half of the 4 x 10-inch felt piece) on the felting mat; arrange felt cut-outs and/or yarn onthe felt base, and attach the yarn and cutouts by repeatedly punching thedecorative pieces through all layers with the felting tool.

If you want todecorate using card suits, you can make a diamond by placing a square of felton one of the square’s corners, make a club by placing three circles of felttogether in a small pyramid. A heart is easy to draw, and a spade is anupside-down heart. You could also make initials, or other designs with yarn.

2. When you are finished felting the décor, fold your decorated felt piecein half to make a 4 x 5-inch tally with the decoration on the outside of thefront and the fold at the top. Reinforce the fold by topstitching about1/8-inch from the fold, across the top of the tally. (To see what this looks like, check the photo above of the finished tallies.) Repeat for all.

3. Press out wrinkles with your steam iron, and trim if necessary. Usescissors to round the free corners at the bottom of the tally, opposite the hinge. Repeat for all.

4. Open up the tally and lay it flat on your ironing surface with thedecorated side facing down and the hinge is horizontal, opening up like the lid on a box (not like a book). Using a hotsteam iron, fuse the Pellon Décor Bond rectangle on the top of the felt piece, above the hinge.Fuse the Pellon Décor Bond square on the bottom of the felt piece, below the hinge, centered onthe felt, about 1-inch away from the hinge. (See photo below.) Repeat for all.

5. Separate about8-10 Post-it notes and apply them to the Pellon Décor Bond square below thehinge. Using one staple, staple the stack of Post-it notes to the tally withthe smooth side of the staple on top of the paper and the staple showing on theback of the tally. Repeat for all.

6. Prepare the Avery name tags by accessing the PDF file titled Bridge Tally for Avery 25395 Name Badgefrom the Internet and printing one page of tallies on the name tags (8 to asheet). (Alternatively, you may hand print each name tag with the informationlisted in the table of information, below.) Using a highlighter, highlight the number ONE onone nametag and highlight each number ONE on the grid. Highlight all numbersTWO on a second nametag, and so on, until all eight nametags are identified bya number ONE through EIGHT.

7. When the name tags are printed and prepared, peel from the backing, andplace one on each Pellon Décor Bond rectangle above the hinge of each tally.Because the name tags are self-adhesive, they will stick to the smooth DécorBond with no other adhesive necessary.

8. If desired, cut two 1/4-inch vertical slits about one-inch apart abovePost-it notes beneath the hinge on the bottom of the tally. Slide short pencilinto sleeve formed by slits.

9. If desired, embellish decorated front of tally with peel & stickacrylic jewels.

Table of information to beprinted on 8 per sheet Avery self-adhesive name tags for two-table progressiveBridge party:

	Table 1	Table 2
1	1-6 v 2-5	3-8 v 4-7
2	2-3 v 5-8	1-4 v 6-7
3	1-8 v 3-6	2-7 v 4-5
4	1-2 v 3-4	5-6 v 7-8
5	1-7 v 2-8	3-5 v 4-6
6	2-6 v 3-7	1-5 v 4-8
7	2-4 v 6-8	1-3 v 5-7

PDF of Bridge Tally for Avery Name Badge

Kate G. creates "Witches & Pumpkins" design

2011-09-25T04:11:00.000-07:00

Fiber artist Kate G. of Brighton, Michigan created this gloriously nostalgic October wall hanging with the aid of Electric Quilt software and copyright free patterns. She created the design as a special gift for the students in her foundation piecing class. Kate has agreed to share her mini-quilt design with Appleton Dance readers. To request her mini-quilt design, and for information about her classes and artwork, contact Kate G. at mailto:quiltinkateg@yahoo.com.

For more information about foundation piecing, check the tutorial on CM Designs, Inc. website. CM Designs, Inc. markets the Add-a-Quarter Ruler that is an indispensable piece of equipment for foundation piecing.

Note: This post was corrected and updated on October 7, 2011.

Foundation piecing

2011-09-24T08:53:00.000-07:00

My friend Virginia tried to explain foundation piecing to me years ago but I really didn't grasp the concept, and found her teeny-tiny dragonfly a mystery and a marvel. Then I signed up for Kate G's foundation piecing class at Creative Quilt Kits in Brighton, Michigan this week, and everything became clear. We made Kate's original design -- a 12x20-inch "Santa and Trees Holiday Wall Hanging" -- using her own paper foundation patterns and her very precise method of doing foundation piecing. I got another new piece of equipment -- a 6-inch Add-a-Quarter Ruler -- that we used to cut precise seam allowances for each piece of patchwork.

You can watch a tutorial on the foundation piecing method on CM Designs, Inc. makers of the Add-a-Quarter Ruler at: http://addaquarter.com/how_to.php.

The first block we learned was a cute little three-inch-square six-patch using one solid piece for the tree (instead of the nine pieces for the tree in the photo above). The Santa block was made of eight pieces added one at a time to the paper foundation. The tree block is made from 14 pieces.

Another Memory Game for Kids!

2011-09-11T05:57:00.000-07:00

I guess I'm slightly obsessed with this memory game, after I made the first one I kept thinking of ways to improve or extend the game.

When my Aunt Susan was here in July we went to a quilt store I hadn't been to called Wendy's Simple Stitches in Howell, MI (great place!) and Aunt Sue found the perfect flannel fabric for a new & improved memory game. The fabric is 'Jolly Jungle Labels' from The Hensley Studio. The coordinating fabrics are great as well.

Instructions are the same as those posted here with a few improvements: I ironed the fusible webbing onto the flannel before cutting out the animal blocks and I cut the felt squares 1/2" larger than I wanted so I could trim them after sewing on the animals to get even edges.

I absolutely LOVE how these turned out with the flannel and felt. Mom made the perfect box for the game and all that is left is to make a 'how to play' sticker and a 'handmade with love (by your Aunt A, Grandma and Great Aunt Sue)' sticker for the inside top and bottom of the box.

Now I need to make another set...

-Alisa

Arrowhead quilt block from Solomon's Rotary Cutting Revolution

2011-08-19T10:07:00.000-07:00

When Susan was here in July, we had fun making this Arrowhead block from Rotary Cutting Revolution by Anita Grossman Solomon. We took the class at The Stitchery quilt shop in Howell, MI with a great teacher, Ruth Spangler, who gave us lots of tips and led us through this intriguiging method of putting together this Arrowhead block.

Susan is an accomplished quilter, but she agreed to take this beginners' class with me. I have never pieced a block before except for simple two triangle blocks, and this one has 16 pieces! We had so much fun learning how to take two eight-inch fabric squares, seam them together, and cut them to make eight units that were easy to piece into the block. In fact, the process is so much fun that it is hard to stop. I finished all sixteen of my blocks the day after the class. The following week, I sashed the blocks and added two borders to make a 54x54-inch quilt that I gave to my daughter as a thank-you gift for hosting us during our week of quilting fun.

I learned so much from teacher Ruth Spangler at this wonderful class. Here are a few tips that this new patchworker found very helpful:

Spray starch your fabric before cutting.
Substitute your seam ripper if you don't have a stylus.
Make a design board from a 4x8 sheet of pink insulation board. Just lean the board against the wall and use pins to tack up your quilt pieces.
Clip seams at junctions where the seam allowances are opposed.
Buy a 1/4 inch seaming foot! It is worth every penny.

Ruth is a member of the Casual Quilters of Brighton, MI. Brighton also is home to the Brighton Modern Quilters group that meets at 7 p.m. on the fourth Monday of the month at Creative Quilt Kits in Brighton. Content by Linda Theil, photos by Alisa.

Update 09/05/11: This pattern appeared in the Nov/Dec 2010 edition of Quiltmaker Magazine and is available as a PDF file available free on the Quiltmaker website at: http://www.quiltmaker.com/content_downloads/QM_Anita_s-Arrowhead.pdf

Sunburst Mirror

2011-07-10T07:56:00.000-07:00

Seems that DIY Sunburst Mirrors are the hottest thing in the blogosphere these days. I saw one at The Lettered Cottage and thought it would be perfect for my back porch. Here's the link to their instructions.

Mine is made like two separate sunbursts one on a 12" and the other on an 8" wooden ring that I then glued on top of each other. I added a wire loop to the larger ring for hanging before I glued on the shims. I didn't seal the final product as I'm hoping the cedar will weather to grey.

Will post a pic later of the small version I made from clothespins for Mom...from inspiration at In My Own Style.

I love mine, cheap and easy and kind of rustic-cool.

-Alisa

Fabric Memory Game

2011-06-19T05:24:00.000-07:00

I saw this project at the Purl Bee and thought it was a great present to make for my nephew.

Mine is simpler, but I think it turned out cute. Played with Mom (a formidable opponent) and we both thought it was challenging! ;)

Supplies:

You'll need 8 different fabrics. I chose colors, but these could be animal prints, cars & trucks...anything! You'll also need felt, we used heavyweight wool felt but craft felt would work. We used iron-on interfacing to stiffen the fabrics before sewing to the felt backing.

Instructions:

Cut two 2.5" squares from each of the fabrics
Cut 16 2.5" squares of interfacing
Cut 16 3.5" squares of felt backing
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric squares
Pin the stiffened fabric squares to the center of the felt squares and stitch around the edge
Iron each square
Cut the felt down to the finished 3" size

I didn't start with 3.5" felt squares, so mine couldn't be trimmed much and look a bit warped. I'd also try using a double-sided iron-on product next time so that the stitching could be purely decorative (or even skipped).

I think I'll make a little drawstring bag to keep these in and this will be a sweet little present!

We Cut the Tree

2010-12-22T04:20:00.000-08:00

We Cut the Tree

L. Theil ã 1984

We started cutting our own Christmas trees in 1978, the year that Ben was born. That was the year after Dad brought home a tree so dry it shed needles when you touched it. By the time we took it out of the house after the holidays, that tree was down to bare branches.

The next year our neighbor said that he got fresh cut trees at a farm up the road in Zelie. It sounded like a good idea to us. My mom was real glad to stay home with the baby that year because she liked the quiet time for her and Ben.

She went with us the next year, though; and we all went every year after that. Tree cutting is somewhere three boys and a girl and a mom and dad can go with very little aggravation. We didn’t need special clothes or a fat wallet.

If my mom had her way we would have spent a bundle on big pine wreaths and yards and yards of pine garland. Dad always said, “Not this year.”

The tree-farmer displayed the greens in the barn where he sold perfect pre-cut trees. There was a pot-bellied stove for heat. Those greens looked so nice and fresh and natural on the barn siding walls. Mom wanted some every year, but she was always so mellow from being with the trees that she didn't let waiting until next year bother her.

Another reason we liked to go together to cut down our tree was that if my little brothers, Paul and Ben, decided to take a screaming fit, nobody cared. There aren’t too many places that you can go where a screaming kid won’t be an embarrassment. But there wasn’t much for Ben and Paul to carry-on about at the tree farm. A kid’s got a lot of freedom in a field full of pine trees.

We dressed in boots and socks and scarves and long underwear and sweaters and knitted hats and mittens. Mom wore jeans that she filled too-well with high cordovan boots and her old band jacket. She loved that jacket; she said it was very warm. Alisa, my older sister, thought Mom looked like a refugee from a class reunion with "Neville Band" written in big gold letters on her back.

Alisa looked more stylish in her not-so-stuffed jeans and her matching mittens and cap. Paul and Ben wore everything in the closet. Mom took an extra hat for Dad. She had a fear of frostbite, with good reason. Tree hunting is cold work.

At the farm we climbed out of our warm car in front of a big barn where a parade of tractor-pulled wagons hauled tree-hunters into the fields.

We got to pick our own bow-shaped saw from a rack in front of the barn. Those saws were sharp and could cut a tree fast. After choosing a saw of a color acceptable to everyone, we piled onto the hay bales of a departing wagon. Off we went with the wind stinging our faces, hearts singing.

We had to scrunch together to give all the tree hunters room. I liked that because it was warmer. Ben and Paul had a fight about who would carry the saw. My mom was in favor of my dad carrying it. But my dad had a better idea; he let me carry it.

We were pulled across the road and onto rutted lanes of frozen mud dusted with snow. the tractor stopped often to disgorge tree-cutters. We debated whether to get off at each stop. Close to the end of the loop around the field, Dad said, “This is it,” and we all hopped off and started wandering around.

Mom immediately went into a trance communing with the trees. Alisa and Dad and I made an honest effort to find a perfect tree. From past experience we knew that a perfect tree would have a straight trunk that was no bigger than the hole in our tree stand. One year Dad had to cut twelve inches off our tree before the trunk was small enough to fit into our tree-holder.

Paul and Ben searched for little trees for their bedroom. Paul found a little one that he mooned over adoringly. Dad said, “Next year.”

When one of us found a promising tree everyone gathered for a consultation. Even if it was close to perfect, we never cut the first tree. Mom said, “We’ll come back to it.” But we never could find it when we came back. I though of marking the trees we liked with toilet paper. I was daunted by visions of a whole forest of trees festooned in white.

We wandered around until none of us could feel our toes and then we found a tree quick. It was always perfect.

Paul adopted a branch that he insisted on taking with him for his room. The kid never gave up. We caught the next wagon passing by and hugged our tree all the way back to the barn.

Dad paid for the tree by the foot. He had it wrapped in twine by an ingenious machine that looked like a cone with a wire-whip inside. The farmer hooked the trunk of the tree with a chain that mechanically pulled the tree backwards through the cone. Our tree came out the other end wrapped up tight in twine, ready for transport. It was a neat trick.

Paul asked the farmer to twine-up his branch for him. With a line of serious tree-buyers waiting for his services, the farmer took the time to run Paul’s bough through the machine. That kid was a charmer. Mom’s eyes were misty when Paul showed her his wrapped-up twig.

Dad put our tree on top of the car rack and everyone grabbed a spider-leg. The spider was an eight-legged elastic tie with a hook on the end of each leg.

Everyone helped.

Everyone pulled.

Everyone yelled.

“Get in the car,” Dad growled.

Mom hustled the little kids in and Alisa and I continued to argue over the spider with Dad.

“Do you think it will blow off?” Mom asked.

“No,” Dad answered as we drove off.

“Can we put the tree in a bucket” Can we have cocoa? Can we have cookies? Can we set up the train?” Paul and Ben looked forward to the next events on the agenda.

“Shut up,” said Alisa.

“We’ll see,” said Mom.

"Merry Christmas," said Dad.

Felt cup-cozy with gift-card pocket

2010-12-12T09:47:00.000-08:00

Alisa gave me the most wonderful gift this holiday season -- a how-to for Appleton Dance!

Felt Cup Cozy by Alisa

Go to your favorite coffee shop and pickup your favorite drink and a cardboard cup holder. You'll need the cup holder for a template and you'll want refreshment during the project : ) Starbucks sells small-size giftcards that make a nice addition to the cozy if you are making it as a gift.

Step 1

Pick two colors of felt and lay them out wrong sides together. I used craft felt that was 50% post-consumer plastics, but wool felt would be wonderful. Using cardboard cup holder as a template, outline the shape on the felt.

Step 2

Pin felt to keep it from shifting and sew around inside of outline. I like zigzag, but any stitch would work.

Cut felt along outline using straight or pinking shears. Add any additional 'quilting' or stitching.

Step 3

Use your drink as a guide and pin felt cozy together.

Step 4 (optional)

If you are going to make a pocket for a gift card, mark lines on center of pinned cozy. Unpin loop and stitch thru both layers. Carefully cut single layer of felt to open pocket. Repin cozy in the correct size loop.

Step 5

Use velcro, snaps (or ribbon ties) to close the cozy. I used fabric glue because I'm a minimalist : )

Resources:

http://kuninfelt.com/cfiles/fc_classicfelt.cfm

www.zingermanscoffee.com

https://www.starbucks.com/shop/card

"There's a nap for that." quilt

2010-12-01T05:04:00.000-08:00

Sometimes a pun is glorious.

See Harriet Rosen's I-pod baby quilt at:
http://benjaminste.in/post/1707639931/theres-a-nap-for-that-iphone-baby-quilt-by

Small tote with zipped pocket

2010-07-02T18:56:00.000-07:00

Small tote with large outside zipped pocket

I bought a cheap fabric tote at Oliver T's on Hill Road in Grand Blanc and liked it so much I wanted to replicate it for a goodie bag gift for an upcoming getaway weekend with friends. I liked carrying the tote because I could put my money and phone, etc in the large zippered outside pocket, but still had room to carry a book, and other bulky items in the pouch. I plan to add photos to the directions below, but in case experienced seamstresses want to give it a try right away, I've listed the unillustrated directions today. Photos added 11/16/10.

General instructions:

Use 1/4 –inch seams.

Press after every stitching.

RST = Right Sides Together.

WST = Wrong Sides Together

Materials and equipment:

Cut two outside tote shell pieces each 14 inches by 22 inches.

Cut two tote lining pieces each 14 inches by 22 inches.
(Stack all four pieces and cut a U-shaped piece 7-3/4 inch wide by 9-1/2 inches tall out of the top center of all four pieces. Save two cuts for inside pocket.)

Cut two pocket pieces (of contrasting fabric if desired) each 14 inches by 8.5 inches.

Matching thread for construction; contrasting thread for topstitching if desired

One 14 inch zipper

One large drapery tassel

Zipper foot

Prepare lining using two tote lining pieces:

Make inside pocket from two of the U-shaped pieces cut and saved from the lining or tote shell fabric. With RST stitch around curved edge of pocket. Turn right side out and hem straight edge top 1/4 inch. Press and topstitch. Center pocket on right side of tote lining piece, decorative top-stitch to lining around curved edges.

With RST, pin and stitch sides and bottom of two lining peaces leaving a four-inch opening in one side seam to use in turning tote. Do not stitch tops of handles.

Fold birds’beak in bottom seam and stitch across about 1.5 inches long seam to form square bottom corner. Repeat for other corner. Trim beaks.

Put tape around end of drapery tassel cord to prevent unraveling, and cut to 3.5 inches from end of tassel. Stitch cord to center of back lining with cord end toward outside of seam and tassel hanging toward inside of lining. Pin tassel down to keep out of the way. (Photo shows method using a hair elastic to use as a closure around a button, instead of a tassel closure.)

Set aside while preparing outer tote.

Prepare outside tote shell:

Using zipper foot, install one side of zipper in right side of outside pocket piece. Press seam allowance and zipper tape to inside of pocket.

Turn under top of pocket lining piece 1/4 inch, press. With WST pin pocket lining to pocket piece right under zipper. Stitch lining to top of pocket over zipper tape by hand. (below)

Flip pocket toward top of tote with zipper face down on front of tote piece. Using zipper foot, stitch the other side of the zipper tape to the front of the tote. Stitch edge of zipper tape flat on front of tote. Flip pocket down and press.

With RST, pin two tote shell pieces together and stitch along both sides and bottom of tote. Press.
Fold birds’beak in bottom seam and stitch across about 1.5 inches long seam to form square bottom corner. Repeat for other corner. Trim beaks.
Turn outside tote shell right-side-out.

Put tote together:
With RST, insert outer tote shell into lining, making sure that the lining pocket is on the opposite side from the outside pocket of the tote shell. Pin along the U-shaped curve of one side of the tote.

Stitch and clip curved seam. Repeat for second U-shaped curve.
Turn through hole in side of lining.
Stitch turning hole in lining seam closed.
Tuck lining inside outer bag.
Pin along U-shaped curved seam and decorative topstitch near edge of curve, leaving 1.5 inch UN-topstitched at tops of handles.

Fit ends of handles together and topstitch closed.

At top of handle, fold edges to middle and topstitch down.

Flip tassel to front of purse. Or stitch button to middle of front to use as closure with hair elastic.

Gwen Frostic, April 1, 2010

2010-04-05T13:09:00.000-07:00

Artist and poet Gwen Frostic (1906-2001) lived and worked in Benzonia, Michigan, not far from the great lake. She said:

A tree each year, at the end of all the twigs, will form new buds. The limbs will grow a little longer and the tips of the branches will remain forever young. The same way with you. With each day, you reach a little further, each day you learn something new, the tops of your mind will remain forever young -- no matter how many years you count on your birthday. Quoted from The Life & Wisdom of Gwen Frostic by Pulitzer Prize winning journalist Sheryl James (Sleeping Bear Press, 1999)

I stopped by her studio on April 1.

Her shop is closed.

But her spirit haunts the site.

And the branches remain forever young.

Info:
http://www.oldhouseonline.com/mushroom-houses-of-charlevoix/
http://www.gwenfrostic.com

Materials display for personal enhancement

2010-03-03T05:50:00.000-08:00

A good friend saw a magazine story about a jewelry designer who displayed her raw materials on a huge board so that she could see at a glance what was available for her creativity. My friend decided that she could do the same with her costume jewelry collection so that she could easily choose appropriate accessories as she dressed for work or play. She made this jewelry board and mounted it in her clothes closet. Here is how she described her process:

I used a 24x36" oak framed bulletin board from Staples, under $30
cut a remnant from 'Warm and Natural' quilt batting to cover the front inside the frame and tacked it down in a few spots around edge with a staple gun (http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html)
cut a rectangle from leftover black satin that was about 6 inches bigger than the board. Covered the batting with the fabric and stapled the fabric to the backside of the board. (Satin may not hold up to multiple pinholes; directions I've seen online for this type of thing, recommend linen or another loose weave fabric.)
used two monkey hooks to hang inside closet (http://www.monkeyhook.com/)
hung jewelry from T-pins
added two LED touch lights to the inside of the closet to give some additional light (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100670785&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100670785&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D27X-_-100670785&locStoreNum=2721&marketID=72). These lights aren't very bright, and don't really help much.

Valentine totes!

2010-02-04T15:26:00.000-08:00

Alisa and I made this cute variation on Martha Stewart's felt shopping tote featured on page 42 of the January 2010 issue. You can download a full-sized PDF file template of Martha's felt bag from her website. Alisa and I made a couple of the totes out of gray, wool felt. The full sized bag is 16 inches wide and 27.5 inches high including the long handles. Alisa pinned on one of her felt corsages that we made at Christmas time and it looked really cute.

For the Valentine's tote, I reduced the pattern size to 12 inches wide by 18.5 inches including the handles. The pattern piece is shaped like a square bib with long straps that you stitch together to make the tote handles.

After cutting out two pattern pieces, stay stitch 1/4-inch from the curved edges of all four handles, using a decorative stitch if desired.

If you want to applique a decoration on your bag, cut out your decorative felt pieces and stitch onto the front of one side of your bag.

Then pin the two bag pieces together and stitch all around the U-shaped outside edge of the sides and bottom of the tote.

We used a decorative zig-zag stitch in a contrasting thread color for all of the stitching.

Then overlap the handles of one side of the bag and securely stitch the handle ends together.

Repeat for the handle on the other side of the bag.

Pin a felt corsage on the front of your bag, if you didn't sew on an applique.

Cotton chenille

2010-01-26T10:25:00.000-08:00

Alisa and I took a class in making cotton chenille scarves from Cindy Jones at Lake Street Mercantile in South Lyon, Michigan on Sunday.

We each bought our own Olfa Chenille Cutter and a yard-and-a-half of cotton fabric. We cut five-inch-wide bias strips about 40-inches long, stacked them, and sewed 3/8-inch channels down the length. You really need a walking foot for this job.

We made our scarf double-sided by stacking seven layers of bias strips with a slightly longer piece in the middle position to act as a foundation for both sides. Then we used the chenille cutter to slice three layers open in all the channels on both sides of the foundation, leaving the center layer to hold the scarf together.

Once the scarf is washed and fluffed dry in a dryer, the bias frays and creates the distinctive chenille nap.

Cindy showed us a cute baby blanket that was chenilled on one side only. The stitched channels create a quilt effect the un-napped side. Lots of interesting patterns and textures could be created using this method -- just make sure to stitch and cut on the bias of good quality cotton to achieve the best effect.

There's a nice basic how-to for chenilling at Quilt Bus.

Yes, Virginia!

2009-12-13T06:33:00.000-08:00

I got this wonderful holiday message from my friend, Virginia in Iowa:

Thank you for the Gorgeous felt Corsage! I think it will Rejuvenate my Aura! - Which, by the way, desperately Needed rejuvenation. I look forward to the opportunity to dress up and wear it. You are Way too sweet!

And the Pepper Streak* sounds Yummy. I think I have fixed a similar dish - don't remember what we called it, but it was tasty. Thanks for the reminder.

Funny thing about crock-pots. There was a chili cook-off at church toward the end of October. I was not going to take chili - just corn sticks. But about noon, I decided to make a batch. My chili is nothing to brag about, but I felt obligated to participate. I made it on the stove, but transferred it to the crock-pot to take to church and to keep it hot through the evening. Went early to plug in the pot and get it good and hot again. There were no outlets at the serving table, so a neighbor took it into the kitchen to plug in. We sat, chatted, waited for the hungry hoards. Then the young woman in charge was getting things on the serving table. She carried in my crock-pot. The handle broke off. Everything went flying - like a slow-motion train wreck. Fortunately it was in the kitchen, not on the fellowship hall carpet. A delay while I got the mop and cleaned it up; others wiped down the walls etc. A clever friend looked to see if it was fix-able. It wasn't. My corn sticks were very well received.

So Target has crock-pots for $14? Was that a special? Maybe I'll go see about a replacement. The dead one was over 20 years old. It deserved to go out with a Bang!

I was just watching Moonstruck while making little folded paper boxes - to put gold dollars in for stockings. I love making those boxes. I have the size exactly right for the gold dollars and have made a templet so I get the part of the picture that I want on top. So cool.

Kathleen has another craft show tomorrow for her counting monsters and baby blankets. She is quite the 'Toy Maker' these days.

Counting monster by Weenbean on Etsy

It has Warmed Up to about 20 degrees here. The snow we have will probably be around 'til April. The other morning I found Drifts in my computer room! The south door had blown open and I could not close it. there was a 2 foot drift pushing the door open and there was ice and packed snow around the hinges. I was afraid at first that those hinges were sprung or whatever when I could not close the door, but I chipped away the ice and snow and was very relieved when the door actually Latched shut. Couldn't Sweep out the snow due to the drift. So I got the shop-vac to get it up. It was EVERYWHERE!!!

Simply being snowed-in has been a pleasant relief after that.

Thank you again for the purple flowers! I will wear them with Pride!!

Much love to ALL
And Many Christmas Blessings!!!
v

* Pepper Steak recipe (adapted from a crock-pot recipe from Better Homes & Gardens):
Get a hunk of round – about 1-1/2 pounds, or so – salt and pepper the meat and brown it in olive oil in the pot. Mix a pint of diced, stewed tomatoes with a six-ounce can of Contadina Italian style tomato paste, and a tablespoon or so of Worchestershire sauce. Dump that over the meat in the pot and add two cups of red, yellow, and green pepper strips. (You can buy these frozen in a bag if you want to be quick; I tried them and they were good.) I added a little water, maybe a quarter cup, then just simmered, covered for four or five hours or so. Pull the beef into chunks and serve over any kind of pasta with shaved Romano cheese. I know it doesn’t sound like much, but boy was it delicious. (P.S. I almost forgot -- add a big ol' chopped onion with the pepper strips.)

Felt fantasy-flower pins

2009-11-26T07:33:00.000-08:00

I saw these cute felt pins in a holiday catalog and wanted to try to make some. The ones in the catalog were all different. Some were layers of felt cut in the shape of petals, some were loops of felt that looked like crysanthemums, some were rolls of felt that looked like rosebuds. Some were a little of each. I made this poinsettia as a trial effort, but it seems to me that you could while away a winter afternoon cutting shapes, embellishing and building flowers to your heart's content. For ideas to spark your creativity, search for "felt flower pins" on Etsy.

Equipment:

Needle

Scissors

Materials:

Standard copy paper for pattern cutting

Heavy felt squares or yardage, as desired (For poinsettia buy dark green, burgundy, and bright red.)

Variety of large (1-1/4 inch diameter), fancy buttons or large beads for flower center

Beads and sequins (if desired)

Large safety pins or stick pin with safety cap (clutch), or jewelry finding pin back available from jewelry finding stores

Buttonhole twist thread to match felt colors used

Embroidery twist for embellishment if desired

Directions:

Cut 5-inch and 4-inch squares of paper. Fold paper and cut petals to make pattern for flowers. (For poinsettia, make pointed petals on pattern with eight petals)
Choose felt and trace petals onto felt. (For poinsettia, cut one dark green, one burgundy, and one bright red five-inch flower, and one bright red four-inch flower.) Cut 1-inch squares of felt scraps to layer between petal pieces and cut 1-inch circle (dark green for poinsettia) to cover stitches on back of flower pin.
Embellish each petal piece with beads, sequins, or embroidery before assembly. Do not embellish center of 5-inch petal pieces because centers will be covered with layered petals. Four-inch petal piece may be embellished everywhere but center where button will be sewn.
Layer petal pieces. (For poinsettia layer 5-inch green, then square spacer, 5-inch burgundy, spacer, 5-inch bright red, spacer, 4-inch bright red.)
Thread needle and using double thread stitch through all layers twice leaving a long tail on back to use to tie knot securing stitches.
Choose button and sew on using the same threaded needled, but do not stitch through all layers of felt. Secure on back by several small stitches and cut thread. Note: a vintage broach would also make a pretty center.
Cover stitching with 1-inch round felt piece (dark green for poinsettia) and using a couple stitches secure to back of flower through the bottom layer of felt.
Using the same threaded needle sew a large safety pin to the round felt piece by stitching several times through the circle on the end of the pin, or sew on a jewelry finding pin back. Alternatively, use a hat pin with safety cap (clutch) to secure flower to clothing.

This blue felt pin has a hat pin made with beads glued onto pin bases purchased at bead store.

Photos by Ben Theil

Contract Bridge

2009-10-26T06:52:00.000-07:00

I posted a story on our local LivingstonTALK.com website about a new enthusiasm -- Contract Bridge. Check it out at Get in the Game: Contract Bridge.

Janet describes making a Sofa-sized Manly Quilt!

2009-10-17T02:30:00.000-07:00

Flannel binding and pocket detail of "manly" quilt

From Janet D.:

I wanted to make a "manly" quilt of my husband's favorite fabrics -- worn denim and soft, old flannel and I wanted it "sofa" sized because that is where he naps. I thought I had enough old blue jeans and flannel shirts and bathrobes around the house to do it which appealed to my frugal leanings.

No batting needed
Virginia had told me not to put in batting as it would be too heavy and I took her advice.

I cut 8 x 8-inch squares of denim, using all the parts of blue jeans that were salvagable including the pocket parts, both front and back. I had various colors of blue including some striped. I backed them with flannel, about five different varieties, all plaid. I sewed flannel and denim squares together differently depending on what the denim was like and according to my whims. Many were with an X, some followed the pattern or seam of a pocket, some with a square and one with a heart.

When I had enough squares for five rows across and nine down I laid them out trying to make both sides very random -- no two of the same plaid next to each other and the various quilting designs scattered. When I was satisfied, I sewed the long rows together. It was then I realized that if I continued, and sewed these long rows to each other, the corners of each square would be so thick I would burn out my machine.

Offset seams
So I made five "half" squares and put them alternately on the top of one row and the bottom of the next so the blocks would be off-set. Then I sewed the long rows to each other and it worked!

I wanted to bind the edges, but I had run out of flannel. Luckily I found a big, plaid flannel skirt on the sale rack at the Goodwill Store in St. Marys where my daughter lives. I took it all apart and it gave me more than enough fabric to cut four-inch, bias binding that I sewed on. After snipping the raw edges and washing and drying -- DONE! It "only" took about nine months from start to finish!

Janet D.

Janet D. and the "manly" quilt

Note from Linda: Directions for another quilt made in this quilt-as-you-go style can be found at Ragged Hearts Quilt: http://appletondance.blogspot.com/2009/02/ragged-hearts-quilt.htm

Heart shaped fiber box circa 1981

2009-09-12T06:15:00.000-07:00

A ghost from the past visited me today when I discovered that the Google newspaper archive came up with the directions for a heart-shaped box I wrote about in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette March 5, 1981, titled "Fiber box: A versatile artifact". I no longer have that box -- but those prissy directions and anthropological background are all mine.

Trixie purse made by Joy T.

2009-08-02T07:06:00.000-07:00

I had dinner with my friends Tom and Joy T. last night and Joy had the cutest purse ever. She said it is called a Trixie purse and she bought the pattern from Purse Strings : Unique Patterns for Unique Women. She plans to make the Scottsdale Satchel next.

Joy also recommends the online fabric store at Hancock’s of Paducah, where they have (fabric) jelly rolls, layer cakes, charm square, and more, and equally great sales.

Cato purse redux

2009-07-21T10:46:00.000-07:00

Here is another version of the Cato purse, this time with some directions for how to put it together. I saw this charm square trick on Moda’s Bake Shop blog and wanted to try it. I used nine “Fresh Squeezed” charm squares and followed the Moda directions, seaming together three rows of three, then cutting the resulting square into four pieces and rearranging the pieces into a new square and seaming them together to get my exterior bag bottom. For the exterior of the bag top, I seamed nine more charm squares into a nine-patch, cut the square into four equal pieces and seamed the four cut pieces together side by side to make my exterior bag top. Directions for the bag are given below for using a fat quarter or cut yardage.

Materials:

Fabric for bag exterior -- one fat quarter OR 1/2 yard fabric or pieced goods
Fabric for bag lining -- one fat quarter OR 1/2 yard fabric
Thread to match fabric
3/4 yard matching or contrasting grosgrain ribbon trim
Optional: fabric-covered cardboard insert to fit bottom of bag.

Cut:
Bag bottom: 2 pieces fabric 13x13-inches (one exterior bag fabric, one lining fabric)
Bag top: 2 pieces fabric 6x26-inches (one exterior bag fabric, one lining fabric)
Or, if you are using a fat quarter or scraps, seam two 6x13-inch pieces to make one 6x26-inch piece.

Procedure (Use 1/4-inch seams throughout. RST = right sides of fabric together)
Prepare bag top (loop):

RST, stitch 6x26-inch piece exterior bag fabric into a loop; turn and press.
RST, stitch 6x26-inch piece lining fabric into a loop. Press seam.
RST slip one loop inside the other. Stitch completely around the loop along one long edge of fabric. Turn and press. Baste raw edges together – to make the piece easier to handle.

Prepare bag bottom (envelope):

Fold 13x13-inch piece exterior bag fabric in half, RST.
Stitch both short sides of fabric together to form an envelope shape.
With wrong sides out, fold a corner so that the bottom fold matches the side seam and forms a vee-shape of fabric. Stitch across the vee-shape about one-inch from the point of the vee.

And repeat for other side of envelope. Turn bag, and press.
Fold the top of the envelope 3/4-inch down to the inside of the envelope to form a hem around the top of the envelope and press in place.
Fold 13x13-inch piece of lining fabric in half, RST.
Stitch both short sides of lining together to form an envelope shape.
With wrong sides out, fold a corner so that the bottom fold matches the side seam and forms a vee-shape of fabric. Stitch across the vee-shape about one-inch from the point of the vee. Repeat for other side of lining envelope. Do not turn.
Fold the top of the lining envelope 3/4-inch down to the outside of the wrong-side-out envelope to form a hem around the top of the wrong-side-out envelope lining. Press in place.

Slip the lining envelope into the exterior bag envelope.

And pin in place about two inches from the tops of the bag and lining.
Join bag top and bag bottom:

Starting at the side seams, match the positions of the seams of the top loop of fabric and the bottom envelope and slip the raw edges of the top loop between the lining and exterior fabric of the bottom envelope about 3/4-inch and pin in place.
Continue pinning until the entire top loop is encased between the outer and lining fabrics of the bottom envelope. Adjust pins and fabric until the pieces fit without wrinkles. Hand baste to hold in place.
Topstitch all around the fitted jointure. (If you are not using ribbon trim, you may use a decorative stitch and contrasting thread to join the top and bottom pieces.)
4. Pin ribbon trip over the seam, forming a loop at one side seam to hold keys. Hand stitch in place along both edges of ribbon.

Make the handle:

On one side of the top of your bag, centered between the two side seams, mark a 4-inch horizontal line 2-inches from the top of the bag. Using that line as your base, mark two half-inch sides and another horizontal line to make a narrow rectangle in the center of the top of your bag.
Stitching through both the exterior and lining layer of one side of the top of the bag, satin stitch or decorative stitch around the outside of the rectangle. Using a sharp scissor or blade, cut between the stitching to create an opening that looks like a large buttonhole.
Repeat for the other side of the top of the bag.

Cato purse

2009-06-29T11:54:00.000-07:00

A friend's daughter made a cute purse for her several years ago and I tried to duplicate it. The pattern is fairly simple, just make the bag and lining for the bottom and a loop of fabric and a lining for the top with holes cut out and bound; then slip the top loop with the handholds between the bag and the lining and topstitch the two pieces together. I used fabrics from Moda's "Fresh Squeezed" collection designed by Sandy Gervais. I bound the handholds with self bias binding and I bound the seam between the top and the bottom with orange grosgrain ribbon with a loop for keys. I plan to make another one and document the process sometime this summer or fall.

Front

Back

Ribbon trimmed bag

2009-06-29T10:52:00.000-07:00

On the way home from seeing Teddy Tahu Rhodes as Mozart's count at Cinty Opera, we stopped at Jungle Jim's where I saw a cute purse made out of silk and satin crazy quilting with a lovely fringe of looped ribbons set inside the bottom seam. I thought I'd like to give it a try but -- as seen in the photo above -- it didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped.

Materials:
I made two 10 x 12-inch pieces of random patchwork triangle squares from four-inch charm squares. I used of Moda's "Fresh Squeezed" cotton print fabric designed by Sandy Gervais. (Round the bottom corners of the fabric, and cut both pieces into identical bag shapes that you desire.) Cut two pieces of matching or contrasting lining fabric the same size and shape as the patchwork pieces. For the ribbon trim, purchase a box of four to six yard-long, mixed-color, fabric ribbon to match or contrast with your fabric. I bought mine in the scrapbooking section of a craft store, Hobby Lobby, to use for the ribbon trim. (Or buy lengths of ribbon you like. Mix grosgrain with silk, satin and chiffon.)You'll also need thread to match and a 12-16-inch cord for the handle.

Proceedure:
1. Make 3-inch loops of ribbon in various colors and lay them along the bottom of one of the patchwork pieces on the right side of the fabric with the free ends of the loops parallel with the edge.

2. Pin and stitch over all the ribbons. Repeat with another layer of ribbon until you have the effect you desire.

3. Take your other patchwork piece, lay it right-side-down on top of the ribbons, matching edges and seam around three sides, leaving top open. Turn and press. Fold top down 1/2-inch and press and/or baste.

4. With right sides together stitch sides and bottom of purse lining. Press, but do not turn. Fold top down 1/2-inch and press and/or baste.

5. Pin ends of cord between bag and lining at side seams. pin or tack in place. Fit lining inside bag, matching seams on side.

6. Stitch around top of bag to secure handle and lining to bag.

I think it's a nice idea, but I made my loops too long and wasn't careful about how they lay at the end of the bag. It's probably worth trying again.

Moda has lots of nice free patterns here. I particularly like the All You Need bag. They also have a really cool blog called Moda Bake Shop.

World Labyrinth Day 2009 in Howell, Michigan

2009-05-03T06:38:00.000-07:00

Indy walks the Howell labyrinth at 1 p.m.

Blue skies on World Labyrinth Day in Howell, Michigan -- Indy, Diane, Annette, Kathy & Tom T. and I all celebrated the lovely spring day. We retired afterwards for PG Tips and banana-nut bread into which some chocolate chips had fallen. I love the old Fannie Farmer recipe -- fast and easy and delicious.

Next morning I found the labyrinth dripping with dew, lit by the sun.

Toad inspects labyrinth

2009-05-01T15:39:00.000-07:00

It has been raining all week and I haven't been able to mow the labyrinth for World Labyrinth Day tomorrow. It is a mud bog, fit only for toads.

But the white violets are blooming in the mire.

Pysanki-method colored eggs

2009-04-11T12:42:00.000-07:00

I learned how to make pysanki -- Ukrainian, colored eggs -- in a class at Old Economy Village in Ambridge, Pennsylvania about 35 years ago. Traditional pysanki are made with poisonous dyes that must be handled carefully and kept away from food and food preparation areas. To make the designs, a stylus called a kistka holds melted beeswax in a tiny funnel. The beeswax is used to create a design by blocking dye with successive layers of wax. When the egg is finished, the wax is removed by heating the egg in a candle flame and wiping the eggshell to reveal the design. My teacher said it is not necessary to remove the egg from the shell before making pysanki, but many practitioners do this. Real pysanki are nothing like the eggs you see here. Pysanki are incredibly detailed, complex and beautiful. You can learn more about pysanki at http://www.learnpysanky.com.

For my pysanki-style egg dying I used food coloring instead of poisonous dye, paraffin instead of beeswax, and a small, child’s paintbrush instead of the kistka. I used vinegar in boiling water as a method of fixing the color on the egg.

Tools and materials:

1-2 dozen jumbo-sized eggs
4 tablespoons vinegar
2 to 3 oz. paraffin
McCormic food color and egg dye sold in a package of four quarter-ounce vials
small double-boiler
small, clean inexpensive paint brush
old towels, dish towels or rags to cover work surface and use on eggs
Scotch-Brite plastic scouring pads
rack for eggs
four 12-oz. cups or mugs to hold food-coloring bath
four large spoons

Cook eggs:

Cover the eggs with water in a large pot and bring to boil.
Turn off the heat, cover the pot and let the eggs cook in the hot water for 20 minutes.
Carefully drain the hot water and cover eggs with cool water and let sit until the eggs are no longer hot, about 10 minutes.
Pour off water and move eggs to dying table.

Prepare dye:

While the eggs are cooking, cover the dying table with clean rags or paper and boil a quart of water.
Empty four food coloring vials, one each into four 12-oz mugs. Be careful not to splatter.
Add one tablespoon of vinegar to the dye and fill the mugs HALF FULL with boiling water.
Have a large spoon available for each mug.

Pysanki-method:

Beginning with a white (or light colored) egg, paint swirls of paraffin on an egg. The area you cover with paraffin will appear white (or the lightest color) on your finished egg. You can paint a name or words, if you like. Try not to put globs of paraffin on the egg, because you will have to remove it all in the end. Don’t try to remove any wax if you make a mistake.
Dip your egg into the lightest colored bath, remove and dry.
Paint your egg with more paraffin swirls, dots, lines or whatever you like. Everything you wax will remain the color of your first dye bath.
Dip your egg into the next color of dye. Remove and dry.
Paint your egg with more paraffin decorations.
Dip into the final color of your dye choices, remove and dry.

Note: To avoid muddy colored eggs, dip in progression of the color wheel – for example: white, to yellow, to green, to blue; or white, to red, to purple. Avoid dipping eggs into opposites on the color wheel – for example: don’t dip a red egg into green.

Once all your eggs are dyed, scrape excess wax off each egg with your fingernail and polish off the rest of the wax with a Scotch-Brite plastic scrubbing pad.

Pillow Cases

2009-03-31T07:59:00.000-07:00

That was fun!

Who'd have thought making a pillow case could be so amusing! I stopped by Jennifer's Quilt Shop in Pinckney last week and found they were in the midst of a pillow-case art show. They had dozens of pillow cases hanging from the ceiling and walls all created by customers according to their obsessions from bunnies to zebras. I picked up the Valori Wells Pillow Cases sewing card 'cause I even though you probably don't need a pattern for a pillow-case, I like information. Plus, these cute, note-sized cards would make nice greeting cards for crafty friends.

Brandi picked some fabrics from my stash -- the pillow case only takes 3/4 of a yard of body fabric, 1/4 of a yard of fabric for the edging band, and 1-1/8 yard of trimming or remnant for trim. I whipped her up a new pillow case in about 30 minutes. The tulips on Brandi's pillow case are quite spring-y -- a good choice.

Ragged Hearts quilt

2009-02-01T07:57:00.001-08:00

I made this design after our quilt retreat a couple years ago when we all made the quilt-as-you-go Christmas tree quilt designed by Karla Alexander of Saginaw St. Quilt Co.

I wanted to see what the possibilities of those diagonal squares might be and designed a Valentine’s quilt with heart motifs. When Janet said her daughter was having a February baby, I thought I’d like to make a baby Valentine quilt for her, but the quilt didn’t turn out very babyish because the fabric I chose for the hearts was too sophisticated and the background choice I made was too dark. I think she will like it, anyway ‘cause it was made with love for her baby.

The quilt has ten columns and 14 rows of 4.5-inch squares. Each square is sandwiched with a 3.5-inch square of batting and stitched diagonally from corner to corner through the center of the block.

Some of the squares are made of 5-inch blocks that are made by placing the heart fabric and the background fabric right-sides-together, and running a seam 1/4 –inch from either side of a diagonal line marked from corner to corner through the center of each block.

Then you cut through the marked diagonal, press open the seam, trim the seam allowances to square up the block and proceed to make the sandwiches the same as with the plain squares.

Each heart is made of six solid blocks and eight diagonal blocks. To make these blocks you need 12 4.5-inch squares and 16 diagonal squares made from eight 5-inch squares of print fabric and eight 5-inch squares of background fabric. I made each heart of the same print fabric, but mixed prints would be pretty, too.

Cut:

140 3.5-inch squares of lightweight quilt batting

72 4.5-inch squares of background fabric (approximately one yard)

48 5-inch squares of background fabric for hearts(approximately one yard)

Six times 12 4.5-inch squares of print fabric for each heart (1/4 yard )

Six times 16 5-inch squares of print fabric for each heart (3/8 yard)

44 4.5-inch squares of contrast fabric for border (approximately 3/4 yard)

Procedure:

Sandwich batting between two identical fabric pieces with right sides facing out, then stitch diagonally through the sandwich, using a long stitch with coordinating thread and a quilt foot that feeds the top of the sandwich along with the feed dogs on the bottom. Following this procedure, make:

22 sandwiches of contrast fabric for border
36 sandwiches of background fabric
6 sandwiches of print fabric and 8 sandwiches of print/background diagonal squares for each of six print-fabric heart

Lay-out the sandwich pieces on a table, floor, or felt board and following the design shown in the layout photo further down this page. Begin to stitch the horizontal rows together using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

When all the horizontal rows are completed, begin to stitch the rows together by pinning one row to another, hand-basting the row, and then machine stitching over the hand basting.

When stitching is complete, begin to clip all the seam allowances, cutting fringes about 1/8-inch apart. You may also stitch the edges of the quilt 1/2-inch from the edge and fringe the edges, too; or leave the edges uncut and sew on seam-binding to finish the edges (as I did in this quilt).

Once your clipping is done, wash the quilt in cold water on gentle cycle and fluff dry in clothes-dryer on low setting. (This will ravel the cut edges to produce the pretty ragged effect.)

For the quilt layout, see the photo below.
Finished size, approximately 36 X 53

Appearance of reverse side of quilt:

Inauguration Day 2009

2009-01-20T10:58:00.000-08:00

Labyrinth in Howell, Michigan on Inauguration Day

Winter day --
our new president,
Obama

Obama inauguration speech

Pat C. Blythe P. Geri M. and Jackie M. on Inauguration Day!

Ana Paula Rimoli's Amigurumi World

2008-12-27T07:02:00.000-08:00

It's enough to make me go find my crochet hook!

This morning on PBS's Knit and Crochet Today program, one of the hosts, Drew Emborsky, made that cute amigurumi coffee cup (third from left in top row above) and I was hooked!

The creator of these tiny toys, Ana Paula Rimoli, has a wonderful blog, Ana Paula's Amigurumi Patterns and Random Cuteness and an Amazon bestseller book, Amigurumi World: Seriously Cute Crochet, published by Martingale in February 2008. Or you can buy her wonderful toys on Etsy at her virtual shop Anapaulaoli, where you'll also find more patterns and lots of pictures.

Star Wizard: a holiday story about finding joy even when all the stars have fallen

2008-12-18T06:48:00.000-08:00

Meggie Lee and Moggie Lou cowered in the window seat of the great hall at Pine Tree Knob. Outside the window silvery snowflakes embraced the Kingdom of Laurel Mountain and reflected brilliant light through the glass doors that lined the southern wall. The light jangled through the tiny hammered-gold feathers of the Winter Wizard’s wings as she stomped her red cowboy boots along the flagstone hearth. The red and gold flames of the fire snapped no brighter than her angry blue eyes.

“You don’t want to make Christmas?” she said in a trembly, low voice that rose at the end to a babyish squeak. Her wings tinkled in accord. “Are my little princesses too regal to plait hemlock wreaths and blow glass bubbles?”

“No-o-o, teacher . . .” moaned Meggie Lee through the tail of a blonde curl she had tucked between her teeth.

“We’re sad,” said Moggie Lou. “The stars have fallen from the sky and we don’t know what to do.”

“The wizard stopped pacing and hooked her thumbs into the hip pockets of her blue jeans. “Ah,” she crooned. “Are you little astronomers? What have the stars to do with you?”

“Moggie’s lip pouted and began to quiver.

“Meggie put her arm around her twin’s shoulder and glared at the wizard. Her braid tumbled out of her mouth. “Wouldn’t you be sad if you lost even a single star!”

“The wizard’s eyes grew wide with amazement. She opened her arms and scanned the snow-bright landscape. “The world is full of starlight!”

“That’s the sun,” Moggie Lou grumbled.

“I say it is a star,” said the wizard.

“I say it is the sun!” said Meggie Lee.

“Is the sun not a star?”

“It’s not the same!” both little girls shouted together.

“Not the same, not the same,” the wizard muttered to herself as she strode around the room gathering shafts of sunlight—long as her arm, thin as paper, and no wider than her thumb. She tucked one under each arm and carried one in each hand. Striding to a long oak table, she elbowed a bowl of quicksilver out of her way and tossed the ribbons of light onto the dark surface. The tiny gold feathers of her wings sang counterpoint to her whispered song—not the same, not the same . . .

“The two princesses rose from their seat at the window, clasped hands, and crept to the table.

“What are you doing?” said Meggie Lee.

“You want a star. I’ll make you a star.” She began folding the ribbons of light in half, then wove them into a tight little square with long tails waving toward the edges of the table.

“That’s not a star,” said Moggie Lou. “It’s a mess.”

“Don’t judge a work in progress,” mumbled the wizard. She continued to fold the light beams, making four little points on one side and then flipping the mess over to make four more points in the opposite direction. The tails of light sprung from the center of the weaving like electric eels.

“Ick,” said Meggie.

“Ugh,” said Moggie.

“Everyone’s a critic,” said the wizard, twisting the squirming light eels into tiny points of light in the center of the star and tucking the ends neatly away. She pinched the ravels from each straggling ribbon and carelessly tossed the pieces into the air. Meggie and Moggie watched as the gleaming snippets bounced and joggled until they could no longer be distinguished in the light-filled room.

“Ahem,” said the wizard.

“A sixteen-pointed, three-dimensional star scintillated in her outstretched hand.

“Oooooh,” said Meggie Lee.

“Aaaaah,” said Moggie Lou.

“Make more, make more,” they both cried together.

“You make them,” said the wizard. “I’ll help.”

“They worked together all day long.

“As twilight descended they threw open the big glass doors, marched onto the snow-covered parapet, and tossed hundreds of shimmering stars into the indigo sky.

Holiday handbag

2008-12-11T15:50:00.000-08:00

I got the idea for this cute holiday handbag from a pattern called The Essential Bag by The Country Quilter. I made some adjustments to the materials and the construction method and made several for holiday gifts.

Materials

outside fabric (print) 7.25 x 16 inches

lining fabric (print or geometric) 7.25 x 18 inches

decorative flap 5-3/8 inch square (solid or geometric), cut on the diagonal

optional: sew light interfacing to wrong side of 7.25 x16 inch fabric piece

18-50 inches coordinating cording for handle

7-inch zipper to coordinate with fabric

thread to match fabric

beads and findings for zipper pull and trim (if desired)

Construction

Use 3/8-inch seams throughout. RST means sew with right sides together.

1. Stitch triangle pieces RST along two short sides of triangle. Clip points, turn and press. Embellish with beads if desired.

2. Insert raw edges of triangle between rights sides of one of the short ends of outside fabric and lining fabric.

3. Stitch short ends of outside to lining RST. Turn and press, with 3/8-inch of lining showing on outside.

4. Fold bag with 2-inch flap to make an 8x7-inch rectangle.

5. Using sipper foot insert zipper into bag opening. Turn bag inside out.

6. Cut cording into desired length for handles. Insert cording ends into top of side seams. Coil cording between right sides of bag to keep out of way of stitching.

7. Stitch one side seam of bag.

8. Unzip zipper so that you can turn the bag when second seam is sewed. Stitch second side seam. Zig-zag stitch the seam allowances of both seams to finish.

9. Turn the bag through the open zipper. Press.

10. Using a head-pin, fashion a jewelled zipper pull for zipper.

Here's a finished bag made with a lining of the same fabric as the outside of the bag.

Jake's Stocking

2008-12-05T12:46:00.000-08:00

I made a Christmas stocking for Jake from a printed panel I bought last year at Jennifer's Quilt Shop in Pinckney. The panel is called "Jolly Old St. Nick" by Susan Winget for Benartex. It's really pretty with St. Nicholas in his sleigh pulled by eight reindeer. I used waste canvas to cross stitch Jake's initials to the top of the panel, and added a few beads to highlight the design. Then I quilted the front panel, outlining the design in places with a running stitch. I made pretty, fat cording for the seam and lined the stocking. I think it turned out pretty cute. It's a good size -- 14x27-inches -- and is nice and wide with lots of room for gifts inside.

Here's Jake, the boy, with his Aunt Alisa at Thanksgiving.

Brandi's bag

2008-12-02T10:04:00.001-08:00

I tried to copy a bag that Brandi likes and here is the result. One of the most interesting aspects of the bag, to me, was the way the handles were created out of one 60-inch long piece of stitched belting that looped on either side of the bag and met on the bottom. I hope she likes it!

Pie making workshop

2008-11-24T13:15:00.000-08:00

On the day before Thanksgiving, Alisa and Sandy and I had a pie-baking workshop, to brush-up our pastry skills. The results were yummy.

Pie crust (makes two nine inch rounds):

Fill a two-cup measure with ice and add water to just cover, set aside. In very large bowl combine 3 cups flour and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cut in 1/2 cup good quality solid vegetable shortning (Crisco) till consistency of cornmeal. Cut in another 1/2 cup (1 cup total) shortning till combined coarsely. (Do not overwork.) Sprinkle in about 1/3 cup of iced-water and combine with a fork; add iced-water till dough sticks together but is not mushy or wet, tossing with fork continually. Discard any extra iced-water. Do not overwork the dough. Dump dough onto a sheet of waxed paper or freezer paper and use paper to form into a ball. (Do not touch dough with hands.) Put in freezer (no longer than 45 min. to 1 hr.) Wipe out bowl and set aside for apples.

Streusel-topped Apple Pie (makes 2 nine- or ten-inch pies)

For pie filling, in small bowl combine and set aside:

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup flour

2 tsp. cinnamon

a few scrapes of freshly grated nutmeg

a pinch of salt

For streusel topping, in medium bowl combine and set aside:

1-1/2 cups flour

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup butter

Directions:
Mix flour and sugar, cut in butter with pastry blender to coarse consistency.

Peel, core and slice (1/4-inch to 3/8-inch slices) 15 or 16 Golden Delicious apples (about 5-6 lbs.). Set aside in large bowl.

Take pie-crust dough out of freezer, unwrap and cut in half. On flour-dusted pastry cloth using a rolling pin covered with a flour-dusted rolling-pin cover, roll pie dough into a rough circle about 13 to 14-inches in diameter. Using cloth, fold crust in half and transfer to pie pan with your hands. (If you do not have naturally cold hands, rinse them in cold water, and dry them before touching dough.) Fold under edges of crust and scallop. (Cut off any excess dough.) Repeat for second pie.

Mix contents of small bowl with apples. Toss lightly. Divide apple filling between two crusts, heaping apples till no more will stay in (leave a few cinnamon-sugar coated apples in the bowl for the kids to pilfer). Sprinkle each pie with half of the contents of medium bowl (streusel topping).

Bake in pre-heated 425-degree oven for about an hour, or till apples are soft when tested with a sharp knife. (Cover pies with aluminum foil after 30-minutes of baking to prevent over-browning of crust and topping.) Remove from oven. Set on racks to cool completely. Serve at room temperature with vanilla ice cream.

Libby’s brand Pumpkin Pie recipe (makes two nine-inch pies)

This is the traditional holiday pumpkin pie. This classic has been on LIBBY'S® Pumpkin labels since 1950.

Ingredients:
1-1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
28-oz. can Libby's 100-percent pure pumpkin (Do not use pumpkin pie mix!)
4 eggs
3 cups half and half (light cream -- Original recipe calls for evaporated milk; I don't use that.)
2 nine-inch (4 cup measure) pie shells (see pie crust recipe above)
whipped cream, if desired

Directions:
Mix sugar, cinnamon, salt, ginger and cloves in small bowl. Beat eggs in large bowl. Stir in pumpkin and sugar-spice mixture. Gradually stir in half-and-half. Pour into pie shell.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350-degrees; bake for 40-50 minutes or until knife inserted near center comes out clean. Cool on wire rack for two hours. Serve immediately, or refrigerate. Top with whipped cream before serving.

Autumn labyrinth

2008-10-25T12:19:00.000-07:00

Shorter days --

Leaves pile in the paths.

Labyrinth

Cedarville, Michigan -- October 1-6

2008-10-17T16:01:00.000-07:00

Kanuga labyrinth

2008-09-15T06:45:00.000-07:00

The concrete, Chartres-style labyrinth at Kanuga Conference Center in Hendersonville, North Carolina, was built by Robert Ferre of Labyrinth Enterprises, LLC.

I attended the UMMAS fall retreat Sept. 9-12 at Kanuga where the retired Episcopal Bishop John Shelby Spong spoke on four separate occasions. Based on his remarkable research and insight into the nature of the human experience, Spong joins Jimmy Carter and Fred Rogers in my personal list of people I admire for living honestly. Spong's book Jesus for the Non-Religious covers much of his philosophy according to my knowledgeable companions, Virginia and Robin.

Spong's mantra is: "Live fully; love wastefully; be all that you can be."

The view from the "rocker porch" at Kanuga Lodge across the tiny mountain lake inspired lovely day dreams.

The Kanuga Knitting and Quilting Retreat will be held January 15-18, 2009. Among other delights, Jean Ann Wright will lead a workshop on her "Rock 'n' Roll" quilt, seen here:

On our way to Kanuga, we stopped at the new Kentucky Artisan Center just off Exit 77 on I-75 near Berea, Kentucky, where we admired this gorgeous snowflake patterned quilt and had a yummy lunch of Hot Brown.

The Hot Brown was a triple-decker, sandwich with hot, sliced turkey and ham layers topped with white sauce and a grilled, tomato slice criss-crossed with rashers of crisp bacon. This was very good.

The Kentucky Artisan Center at Berea was opened July 30, 2003. The 25,000-square-foot building was built on 10-acres of property at a cost of $8.75-million by contractor D.W. Wilburn of Lexington, Kentucky and was designed by Myers Jolly Architects also of Lexington. I loved the art-glass window panels designed by Kenneth von Roenn, Jr. of Architectural Glass Art, Inc. in Louisville, Kentucky.

And to add to my collection of fascinating rest stops, here is a sculpture that adorned the grounds of a welcome center on I-40 near Knoxville, Tennessee. The visitor's center featured a log cabin wing.

Labyrinth in Santa Fe, NM cathedral garden

2008-08-16T09:42:00.001-07:00

After lunch on August 7, we walked to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi where I wanted to see the paved labyrinth in the cathedral garden. Before leaving for Santa Fe, I had looked up local labyrinth sites and found 19 cited on the online Labyrinth Locator. Alisa discovered the cathedral labyrinth and told me about it. I'm so glad she did, it's really beautiful.

We did not have time to walk the labyrinth, but I took some pictures to use in the labyrinth workshop I’m giving from 9 a.m. until noon on Sept. 27 at the Bennett Recreation Center for Howell Recreation Authority --activity #6754.300

MUJI-homage tote

2008-07-04T18:41:00.000-07:00

This tote was inspired by the clever MUJI tote my friend Rosey got from her friend in New York. The original was made of one layer of ripstop nylon with flat-felled seams. This one is cotton with a lining. You can order shibui MUJI products online at the Museum of Modern Art.

Directions for MUJI-homage tote

Make your pattern out of medium weight interlining fabric 31.5-inches long by 15 inches wide.

1. With the pattern's long, straight edge on the fold of the fabric, cut four pattern pieces: two of exterior bag fabric and two of lining fabric. I used cotton for both exterior and lining. (If you wish, you may cut pattern pieces from four different fabrics, as I have in this demo.) You will need a 7/8-yard (31.5 inch by 30 inch) cut of fabric for each of the four pieces cut from your pattern.
(If you wish to interline, cut two interlining pieces and baste to wrong sides of bag exterior pieces. You will need two 31.5 by 30-inch cuts of interlining for each bag.)

NOTE: After making several bags, we have decided that a longer handle is nice, so we have been using 36-inches of fabric along the fold -- a full yard instead of 7/8-yard. Also, if the fabric is not directional, you may piece the two lining-fabric cuts by seaming the foldline.

2. With right sides together, using a 3/8-inch seam allowance, stitch one exterior and one lining piece together, following around all curved edges, matching arrows and leaving the straight edge at the bottom open.

3. Clip seam allowance every one-inch.
4. Turn, and press.

5. Repeat for second exterior and lining piece.
6. Fold each piece in half with right sides out. Press. You now have two identical bag pieces, ready to be stitched together.

7. Lay one bag piece open flat on a surface with the lining side up.

8. Place the second bag piece (which is folded in half) over the flat (opened) bag piece. Place so that all raw-edged bottoms are even with each other. The curved, outside edges of the folded bag piece should meet at the center of the flat opened piece, as shown below.

9. Fold the flat bag piece over the folded bag piece -- sandwiching the folded piece -- with all raw edges on the bottom even.

10. Pin two layers of the purse together at V-shaped intersections at the top of the bag.

11. Continue pinning along edges in preparation for stitching bag pieces together. Do not pin bottom. (Baste, and remove pins before machine stitching, if desired. Basting makes the slightly complex process of stitching two layers together in what amounts to a tube, slightly easier. If you choose to baste, follow directions for second piece of the bag, and baste both bag pieces before stitching on the sewing machine.)

12. Topstitch through two lined bag-layers all the way around one bag piece. (You will be sewing through several layers of fabric, so make sure your needle is new and of the correct size for your fabric. I used a 12 for the lightweight cottons in this sample.)

Be careful not to stitch through other side of bag – stitch all the way up and around the tie end.

13. To form exterior pocket, make bartacks six or eight inches apart at top of one exterior curved edge, then clip the stitching between bartacks to open a pocket.

14. Turn bag inside out, repeat pinning and topstitching with the second lined bag piece, as described above.

15. Bartack six-inches apart at top of one curved edge, form interior pocket on opposite side of bag from exterior pocket. Clip stitching between bartacks to form pocket.

16. Turn bag right-side-out. Fold bag with raw edges at bottom even. Trim bottom so that all edges are even. (Note: depending on which way you fold the bag, your ties will either emerge from the sides or the middle of your bag. Alisa doesn't like the bag folded with the ties emerging from the middle 'cause it doesn't lie flat against your side when worn over the shoulder.)

17. With wrong sides together (right sides out, as left after trimming bottom edges), pin and stitch using a one-quarter-inch seam allowance along the bottom of the bag.

18. Turn bag inside-out, press across bottom of bag, pin, and stitch with 3/8-inch seam allowance across bottom of bag -- enclosing seam allowance from first stitching line.

19. After stitching, turn the bag right-side-out; push out corners.

20. Knot tie ends to form handle for bag.

To pack, unknot and fold flat in suitcase or purse.

Susan's tote:

Mexican coin purse

2008-05-30T08:04:00.000-07:00

This project was inspired by a coin purse fashioned from a cardboard juice box that my friend Robin brought back from Merida this spring (above). It will also hold business cards, credit cards and/or gift cards.

Materials:
One 12-1/4 by 7.5-inch piece of lightweight top fabric, such as a cotton print
One 12-1/4 by 7.5-inch piece of lightweight inside fabric (or two pieces of the same fabric, if desired)
One 12-1/4 by 7.5-inch piece of fusable web (such as Heat & Bond Lite iron-on adhesive)
Cut a pattern as indicated in the diagram below.

Directions:
1. With iron, fuse web to wrong side of top fabric. Peel off paper. Place inside fabric, wrong side down, on top fabric. Fuse. Place pattern on fused fabric. Outline pattern on fused fabric with pencil or chalk. Cut out along marked outline.

2. Top stitch, zig-zag, or decorative stitch, around entire perimeter of fabric.
3. Crease each side flap from top to bottom; press, and topstitch along crease.

4. Using a ruler and X-acto knife, cut a horizontal slit 3/4-inch from the bottom of the center portion of the fabric to within 1/8-inch of the vertical stitching on either side of the center panel. Zig-zag or buttonhole stitch opening. (Alternately, stitch buttonhole type stitching first, then slit the opening with a razor or X-acto knife.)

5. Lap longer wing 1/4-inch over the other, pin, and zig-zag to form a tube of fabric. Be careful not to catch the other side of the purse in the stitching.

6. Fold 3/4-inch pleats on both sides of tube. Press flat.

7. Fold the bottom to meet the top of the purse, directly beneath the flap closure. Press.

8. Stitch along fold through all layers -- stitch two or three times to secure.

9. Pin center sections together to form pockets.

10. Zig-zag stitch center section together to secure.

11. Tuck flap into slit to close purse. Alternately, apply velcro fasteners, snaps, buttons, ribbons or any closure method of your choice.

You can also use this pattern to make the purse out of cardstock or heavy paper. Follow the directions using packing tape instead of stitching to form tube and to secure the pockets.

Labyrinth haircut

2008-05-21T13:15:00.000-07:00

Scott Tilley of Lawn Monster (810-923-6217) raised the mower deck up to 5.5-inches and gave the labyrinth a haircut. I had no idea this would be possible and he solved my problem of how to trim the labyrinth up without going down on my hands and knees with a hand clipper. The labyrinth looks very elegant, now. The lawn patch I used to repair the bare spots will come in soon, I hope. I have to water tonight since we haven't had any rain.

Before haircut (above)

Quick "Taylor Made Bag"

2008-05-05T12:03:00.000-07:00

I made this shopping tote by simplifying a bag from Cindy Taylor Oates’ Slouchy Bags booklet number TMB-162. This is the "Taylor Made Bag" made quick!

This bag is about 9x12x6-inches when packed. The drop on the handle is about 18-inches making it very easy to pack and unpack.

The booklet has six or seven easy bags with many variations. You have to trace the full-sized patterns provided in the booklet. I thought the directions were pretty good; I’d say you need a little sewing savvy to follow the instructions, but not a lot.

The thing that intrigued me about the bags in this booklet is they are all well-proportioned, useful shapes and the variations and embellishments are interesting. The book cost $15 and was published in 2006 by Oates' company, Taylor Made Designs, P. O. Box 31024, Phoenix, AZ 85046.

I bought the booklet last year while on a shop-hop of southeast Michigan quilt stores at The Quilt Patch , 112 N. Evans’ St., Suite #5, Tecumseh, MI 49286. The shop is very big and has a lot of wonderful fabrics and books and accessories. I really enjoyed my visit there.

Folded-patchwork coasters

2008-05-01T15:37:00.000-07:00

This is a very good scrap project courtesy of my sister-in-law, Susan!

1. Cut 4.5-inch square of solid color cotton.

2. Cut 4.5-inch square of thin cotton batt, or old tea-towels or other absorbent fabric.

3. Cut one 4.5-inch square of each of four different cotton prints.

4. Fold each print square in half – wrong sides together -- and press. Set aside.

5. Stitch solid square and batt together – stacked wrong sides together -- with stitching centered vertically and horizontally on the fabric.

6. Stack with batting on the bottom and layer the folded squares on top of the solid square that is already stitched to the batting, as shown below.

7. Layer first folded print with fold running vertically down the center of the solid square/batt and raw edges lined up along the right side of the square. Pin in place.

8. Layer second folded print with fold running horizontally across the center of the solid square/batt and raw edges lined up along the bottom of the square. Pin in place.

9. Layer third folded print with fold running vertically down the center of the solid square/batt and raw edges lined up along the left side of the square. Pin in place.

10. Layer fourth folded print with fold running horizontally across the center of the solid square/batt and raw edges lined up along the top of the square. Lift the top of the first print and tuck the right side of the fourth print under the flap. Pin in place. (See finished appearance of pinned layers in photo below.)

11. Stitch 1/4 –inch seams around all four sides of the fabric stack.

12. Trim each corner diagonally.

13. Turn through the open center of the folded fabrics.

14. Use pointed object to push out corners.

15. Press flat.

You can make a set of four matching coasters with four print cottons, one solid cotton and one batt piece each 4.5 X 18 inches, or 9 X 9 inches square.

My friend, Janet, used this idea to make a hotpad, as well. Janet said: "I thought you'd like to know that I used the coaster pattern, enlarged it to an eight-inch square and made my sister a hotpad for her birthday. I think it turned out quite nice. I added an extra layer of batting between the two bottom layers which I stitched to the inside one so it wouldn't shift. Now that is a project of the length I like!"

Note 12/19/10:
We have recently seen these coasters made with one color of fabric and top-stitched (or decorative stitched) around the edge of the finished coaster. Alisa thought this stitching was a good idea to help make the coaster lay flat, so we wanted to mention it as an option for these coasters, too. Thanks for visiting Appleton Dance!
Note 01/19/20:
Today I have repaired an error in the directions that must have occurred when I entered the note above. The directions should be complete now that I have fixed the problem.

Labyrinth resurrection

2008-04-29T08:45:00.000-07:00

I wasn’t sure what I’d find when the snow melted last month. I trudged around in the mud a little and it seemed like there might be enough information left in the labyrinth, that I wouldn’t have to start over from scratch. I never anticipated that I’d be able to re-use the layout from the year before, but it seemed like it might be possible.

By this past weekend the ground had dried enough so I could get out there and take a look around. I got out the little 18-inch push mower and thought I’d just start at the beginning and see if I could mow a path through the leaves and debris. Hopeless confusion soon put that idea to rest. Since I didn’t want to risk cutting across grass path boundaries, I put the mower away and decided I needed to mark what I could see of the paths and go from there.

I bought some paint at Home Depot. I meant to buy inverted marking paint, but I purchased striping paint instead. The only difference, I think, is that the striping paint has a type of nozzle made to use with a striping machine.

I discovered this yesterday when I got back into the labyrinth. The paint was difficult to dispense using my fingers, but I used it anyway. I intended to start painting obvious paths and then using my labyrinth drawing, fill in the gaps. This was easier conceived than executed, but eventually – with a few trials and errors -- I had roughed in the paths. I walked into and out of the labyrinth to test the route, and got out my mower to try again. This time it worked better, although I must say the paths have a somewhat more morphic quality to them than their previous geometric precision.

Then I got out the paint again and filled in the gaps and straightened some lines and generally gave the labyrinth a little more definition. I plotted the petals in the center of the labyrinth, painted them, and mowed them. I replaced the winter turn markers with the glass balls in copper mounts that I bought last year and straightened and repositioned the markers I used for the entrance turns and the petals in the center. (I used green metal flower stakes for this.)

I got out the rake and began to clean up the winter leaves and debris. This is an ongoing job, but I make a good start. After I cleaned up the debris, I made a final foray with the paint to establish lines that got partially raked away. I also redefined the turns with paint and spruced up the entry with straight lines and a spiral starting spot.

Finally, I installed a little birdbath/fountain that I bought several years ago, instead of my red herb-planter from last year. I think the sculpture fits the space a little better and I like it – at least for now.

So! The labyrinth is ready to use. I’m a little surprised myself that it was so easy to rebuild. I’m pretty happy to see it again after the long, cold winter.

I bought some more paint -- the marking paint, this time -- to spruce up the paths when I'm done with raking. I also bought some grass starter mix to patch the baldish spots once it warms up a little more, and some wildflower mix that I thougth I might broadcast and see what happens.

Classy Clutch

2007-10-29T11:14:00.000-07:00

This classy zippered clutch was inspired by a cute, free bag from Clinique cosmetics that turned out to be a perfect size and shape for taking to the opera. The clutch is eight-inches wide and six-inches tall with a two-inch wide, squared-off base. The shape tapers to a point at the top and features a zipper set-in one inch from the top of the clutch.

The clutch is constructed similarly to the pyramid pouch in that a zipper is used to form a tube of fabric and the bag is formed by shaping the tube with seams. A lining is constructed in the same fashion as the bag, without the zipper. The lining is hand-stitched in place. Beading embellishment may be added before the lining is inserted. I attached a beaded toggle to the zipper pull on this bag.

Materials:
12 x 16 inch upholstery, decorator, or heavy weight dress fabric for bag
12 x 16 inch medium weight interfacing
12 x 16 inch lightweight fabric for lining
12-inch zipper to match fabric
thread to match fabric
beads and beading thread for embellishment

Instructions:

Press fabrig for bag.
Baste-stitch interfacing to wrong side of fabric along both 16-inch edges.
Fold fabric and interfacing in half with right sides of the bag fabric together. Baste-stitch a 3/4-inch seam along short side of fabric, forming a tube. Cut basting stitches every one inch to make it easier to remove seam after zipper is installed.
Install zipper according to your machine directions or zipper package directions. Release basted seam. Unzip zipper to make room to turn bag right side out when seaming is finished. Pin unzipped ends together.
Fold tube of fabric with the zipper 1-inch from the top fold. Make sure the zipper placket opens folding upward toward the top of the bag. IOW, the open (unstitched) side of the zipper placket will be toward the bottom of the bag. Press. Do not turn bag. Continue to work with right sides facing.
Measure 1-3/4 inches from the left side of the top fold and mark with pencil. Measure 1/4 inch from the left side of the bottom fold and mark with a pencil. Using a ruler, draw a line from the top mark to the bottom mark, creating a slanted seam along the left side of the bag. Pin. Repeat on the right side of the bag. Stitch both seams, stitching over both ends of zipper. Reinforce seaming. Trim seams to 1/4 inch seam allowances. Press.
Take one corner of the bottom of the bag and re-fold to make the point of the corner into the point of a triangle with the side seam running from the point downward to bisect the triangle. Measure one-inch from the seam on both sides of the seam and mark a line from one side of the triangle to the other. Stitch along the marked line. Trim. Press. Repeat on other side of the bottom of the bag. This will form the two-inch base of your clutch.
Turn the bag, push out all the corners and press.
Embellish with beading as desired.
Sew the lining in the same fashion as the bag, but do not install a zipper. Release the basting at the top of the lining after stitching the side and bottom seams. Do not turn right-side-out.
Insert the lining inside the bag and hand stitch to the inside of the bag along the zipper on both sides. You may secure the lining to the corners of the bag by hand tacking the lining to the seam allowances of the bag at the corners.
Attach a beaded dangle to the zipper pull.

Pyramid pouch

2007-09-16T09:23:00.000-07:00

My daughter saw this cute pyramid pouch in a store and liked it, so when I saw a pyramid bag mentioned on the Craftster site I wanted to try to make one for her.

Directions were also available as Teepee bag from Marie's Sewing Center online.

I tried making the bag several different ways in several sizes and decided I didn't like making the bag any smaller than 6.5 inches on a side when finished. That size is made with a 7.5 x 15-inch piece of cotton and uses a 7-inch zipper.

After following directions for making the basic bag, I made a lining by sewing a second pyramid with coordinating fabric, didn't install the zipper, and inserted the lining separately by hand with a running stitch along the zipper tape.

Installing a lining was fast and easy and made the pouch both sturdier and prettier.

Kerrytown Bookfest

2007-09-10T15:42:00.000-07:00

Jerzy Drozd's comic book workshop at this year's Kerrytown Bookfest was superb. He crammed a lot of info into a short time and I learned a lot about storytelling in a highly compressed package: big picture = big event. Now I want to storyboard everything! I left the class very happy with my tiny comic about a sunflower who ran away from the drought-plagued acres to freedom by the roadside.

I picked up a really great book in Hollander's while I was waiting for my class: Creating Handmade Books by Alisa Golden. This is a treasure trove of excellent instructions for making every type of artists' book.

End of summer

2007-09-08T07:27:00.000-07:00

The grass is getting longer in the labyrinth. I marked the turns with little glass balls like the one in the herb planter.

Watermelon slice placemat

2007-08-16T10:31:00.000-07:00

I saw this watermelon-slice placemat at my local quilt shop, The Stitchery, and liked the look of it as well as the fact that it is a log-cabin, quilt-as-you-go design. I enjoy the quilt-as-you-go method and had never tried this log-cabin technique so I was eager to give it a try. Karen at The Stitchery said the design was "Quilt a Summertime Table Runner" by Shelley Robson from Better Homes and Gardens' spring 2007 edition of their American Patchwork magazine.

I made some changes to the pattern to make a placemat for a 36-inch round table instead of a runner. My adaptation didn't turn out perfectly, but I had fun and enjoyed learning something new. I love this log-cabin, quilt-as-you-go method and want to try it again.

Museums Nature Montreal

2007-08-10T06:42:00.000-07:00

Montreal was glorious. We took the train from Windsor and stayed at the Hotel XIX Siecle on the Rue St. Jacques in the Old Port. We walked everywhere in the narrow streets, stopping at churches and museums and enjoying the exuberant architecture. We took a boat ride on the St. Lawrence and a subway ride across town to the Museums Nature Montreal where a visitor could spend a lifetime enjoying all there is to see. Take a virtual tour of the botanical garden.

Easy facial tissue cover

2007-07-07T14:20:00.000-07:00

Easy, facial-tissue cover
by Linda Theil, June 2007
If you’re tired of carrying around a grungy pack of facial tissues, try this very cute and super-easy cover made of scraps.

Cut one 5-3/4 x 7-inch cover fabric
Cut one 5-3/4 x 8-inch contrasting, liner fabric

1. Using 1 /4-inch seams, sew right sides together, across both of the 5-3/4-inch edges to form a tube.

2. Turn inside out and press seam allowances toward shorter (outside) piece of fabric. The liner (longer piece of) fabric will form a 1/4-inch border edge on each end of the tube. Press.

3. Fold the two bordered edges to the center, right sides together.

4. Using 1/4-inch seams, sew across the two short ends.

5. Turn right-side out. Press.

6. Insert package of purse-sized facial tissues.

Making a grass labyrinth

2007-07-07T12:37:00.000-07:00

How to make a 58-foot diameter, Chartres style, painted labyrinth on grass
(Note: The labyrinth is 61 feet in diameter if you add “lunations”)
by Linda Theil, June 2007

Equipment & materials:
Braided polypropylene twine – 35 lb. Break strength
Indelible marker
12 large cans inverted marking-paint in choice of colors (orange, white and blue are good, red doesn’t show up very well)
NOTE: You will need more paint if you intend to paint the 114 1.5-foot-long “lunations” around the outermost circle of the labyrinth.
2-foot stake sharpened on one end
Mallet to pound in stake with
Optional: there is a device you can buy to apply marking paint. I never used one, so I don’t know if it would be helpful or not. There is a lot of back bending in painting this labyrinth, and an applicator that would extend your reach might be very useful if it doesn’t cut down on the precision of your application.

Background and information on how to create a Chartres-style labyrinth is available at The Labyrinth Society’s web page at www.labyrinthsociety.org.

I used inverted marking paint on grass to create my labyrinth. My labyrinth is 58-feet in diameter (not including lunations) and the paths are two-foot wide including the width of the painted line. I took a morning to lay out the circles and an afternoon to put in the entrance and turns. The next day, I touched up the circles and made the petals in the center.

To orient your labyrinth to the summer solstice line, get up at dawn on June 21 and lay a two-by-four or other similar marker pointing toward the spot on the horizon where the sun comes up. This line will mark the east/west axis of your labyrinth and site the entrance/exit lanes. The solid, straight line that extends from the innermost circle to the outermost circle will be one-half a path width -- in this case, 1 foot – to the left of this line. A partial straight line will lie parallel one-half a path width to the right of this line.

Preparation:
Whether you get up at dawn or not, temporarily mark your east-west orientation line and site your stake somewhere along an extension of that line near where you want the center of your labyrinth to be. The westernmost point on that line along the outermost circle will be the entrance site of your labyrinth (sometimes called the mouth).
To prepare your marking guide, make a loop in one end of the twine, large enough to move freely on the stake. Measuring from the center of the loop, mark twine with indelible marker at 7 feet (the labyrinth center is 14 feet across or approximately one-fourth of the 58-foot diameter of the labyrinth), 9 feet, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, and 29 feet. This will be referred to as your guide.
Loop the guide over the stake and walk the circle with the guide extended to see if your circle is placed where you want it. Move the stake until you get your circle where you want it. When you are happy with your placement, pound the stake securely into the ground.

Marking the concentric circles
Hook the guide over the stake and extend the guide to its full length, taut without stretching or pulling. Drop the guide on the ground and paint a small mark on the grass at the site of each indelible mark on the guide. (The guide will quickly become marked with paint; try to be precise and do not allow slop in your marking just because the paint obscures the original mark.)
Pick up the guide and swing it a few degrees from the original marks, paint the marks again. Move the guide, paint marks, and so on around the entire labyrinth. I tried to avoid marking the approximately 15-degree sections of the circle at the 90-degree (three o’clock), 180-degree (12 o’clock), 270-degree (9 o’clock), and 360 or zero-degree (six o’clock) sites where the entrance/exit lanes and the turns will be painted.
After all the circle marks are painted, go back and indicate the outermost circles a little more clearly by painting between the marks. Be sure to avoid the areas as indicated above. This applies to all the circles, except for the innermost circle which will be completely closed except for an approximately (at this point) three-foot-wide opening directly facing the entrance. What you now have is an innermost circle of 14-foot in diameter in the center of your labyrinth. There will be 11 concentric circles fanning out at two-foot intervals from this central circle.

Making the entrance/exit lanes
To make the entrance/exit lanes, you will make two straight lanes created by three parallel lines that will mark the entrance/exit to your labyrinth. The lane on the right is centered on the central axis of the labyrinth. Lay out a straight line (not an angled line like you used when making the concentric circles) one foot to the right of the central east/west axis, mark it with a straight line by staking your twine in a straight line between the inner and outermost circles, and paint. Mark only four lanes from the innermost circle, skip two lanes, mark four lanes and skip the last lane.
Measure two feet to the left of this line, lay out with twine, and paint a solid straight line from the innermost circle to the outer circle.
Measure two feet to the left of this second line, and lay out another straight line with twine. Paint this line beginning at the second circle from the center, mark four lanes, skip two lanes and paint four lanes to the outermost circle of the labyrinth.

Installing the back-to-back turns
Install the back-to-back turns. Loop your twine around the center stake and extend it to the outermost lane of the labyrinth in the 12-o’clock position. Using the twine as a guide, paint a line across the width of two lanes beginning at the outermost circle, then skip a lane and paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane and paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane and then paint across the last two lanes. These lines create back-to-back turns across two lanes of the labyrinth. Move your twine to the three o’clock position. Using the twine as a guide, skip across the first two outermost lanes of the labyrinth, then paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane, paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane and paint across the next two lanes and skip the innermost lane. Move your twine to the nine o’clock position. Using your twine as a guide, skip the outermost lane and paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane and paint across the next two lanes, skip a lane and paint across the next two lanes and skip the last two innermost lanes. This makes 10 back-to-back turns in your labyrinth. NOTE: Before painting, you may wish to mark your turns using lengths of wood or plastic to check the placement before marking with paint.
After your turns are marked, make “labryses” at the ten double turns by shaping the lines into back-to-back curves that, when completed, look like a double headed ax.

Completing the entrance/exit
At the entrance lanes, in the right-hand lane, extend the seventh circle across the path to meet the center line of the entrance/exit lanes. In the left-hand lane, extend the sixth circle across the path to meet the center line of the entrance/exit lanes.

Creating the single turns
Create single turns. To the right of the entrance/exit lanes, mark four single turns in groups of two separated by two lanes as follows. Skip the first lane and paint a single turn across lanes two and three (Note: these will already be marked with paint, simply round the edges to form a two-lane wide “C” shape on the right side of the entrance/exit lanes. On the left side of the entrance/exit lanes you will form a shape like a backwards “C”.) Mark another single turn in lanes four and five. Skip the next two lanes and paint a single turn in lanes eight and nine. The paint another single turn in lanes ten and 11. On the left of the entrance/exit lanes, paint a single turn in lanes one and two and another single turn in lanes three and four. Skip the next two lanes and paint a single turn in lanes seven and eight and another single turn in lanes nine and ten.

Touch up
Fill in the circles, leaving an unpainted section of the circle in front of each turn to indicate an open path through the turn. Touch up the circles and the turns where needed.

Making petals in the center
In the center circle of the labyrinth, you can form six petals by dividing the circle into six parts around the circumference of the inside circle, with the first mark directly opposite the entrance of the labyrinth (and the entrance to the innermost circle, also) on the east/west orientation line. Measure 3.5-feet out from each of the six marks and mark a dot. Then measure halfway between each of the six marks on the circle and mark that. Those marks will indicate where the curve of each petal touches the circle. Mark each petal with paint, being careful to create a rounded shape to each petal. If you want to pave or make a deck or gazebo in the center of your labyrinth, you will need 154-square-foot of material to cover the 14-square foot circle. (pi times radius squared equals 3.14 times 49 (7x7) equals 154). You can purchase a circle kit of Unilock Olde Greenwich Cobble (Beechwood color) for approximately $3 per square foot or $462.

Odds and ends
I plan to trim my labyrinth using an 18- or 20-inch push mower and see how that works out. I hope to enjoy it during the rest of the summer.
I would like to purchase 12- to 16-inch diameter paving stones to set around the circumference of my labyrinth to form the lunations, there will be space between them depending on the size I purchase. Alternately you can mark with paint a 1.5-foot long lunation every 1.5-foot around the circumference of the labyrinth.I added a crock with an herb planter on top to decorate the middle of my labyrinth. The planter is red glazed and has lavender, sage, purple basil and lemongrass in it. A small, 1-inch diameter, glass crystal ball wrapped in copper tubing decorates the planter.