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Slip/zip pocket construction

by Linda Theil

The purpose of this post is to describe the basic construction of a dual slip pocket and zippered pocket that can be adapted to the interior or exterior, front or back pattern pieces of many bag designs. I describe this pocket and its inspiration in a previous post titled "Autumn pouch". 

To make a basic seven-inch wide by eight-inch long combined slip/zip pocket that may be incorporated into many bag designs you will need four pieces of fabric. This specific pocket was sized to fit a Noodlehead "Plover" design MEDIUM. Cut sizes for the Noodlehead "Plover" SMALL are also included in the fabric listing below. In any size, the process is the same for construction.

All pieces in this basic, slip/zip pocket demonstration will be seven-inches wide. You will also need an eight- to nine-inch length of #5 zipper tape and zipper pull. (Yes, you can use any size zipper you like, but not much shorter than eight inches or so.)

#1
One piece of matching, coordinating, or accent fabric to make the FRONT of the zipper pocket seven-inches wide by six inches long. (blue) Small size: 7 x 4-3/8 inches

#2
One piece of zipper pocket LINING seven-inches wide by 11-inches long. (orange) Small size: 7 x 8-3/8 inches. (You can adjust this length from the top where you sew to top of zipper if the pocket depth seems to long for your pattern.)

#3
One piece of matching, coordinating, or accent fabric to make the SLIP POCKET seven-inches wide by 9.25-inches long. (aqua) Small size: 7 x 8-3/8

#4
One piece of matching or coordinating fabric to make the CENTER PANEL seven-inches wide by eight-inches long. (green dot) Small size: 7 x 7 inches 

Interface all four pieces of fabric with light to medium-weight fusible interfacing cut 3/8-inch from all edges of the fabric. (Note: subtract 3/4-inch from length and width of pocket pieces to cut interfacting.)

Process:

With FRONT fabric face-up, zipper face down, and zipper-pull to the left when closed, stitch top of zipper tape to top of zipper pocket FRONT with 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Place LINING, wrong side up, along top of zipper and stitch to zipper with 1/4-inch seam allowance.


Flip the LINING over so that the wrong sides of the FRONT and LINING are together, and topstitch along fold.



Flip the pocket over so that the zipper is face down and the LINING is on top. 


Fold the LINING right sides together to the top edge of the zipper.


Sew LINING to top edge of zipper with 1/4-inch seam allowance.


With zipper face up, place SLIP POCKET face down along top of zipper and stitch with 1/4-inch seam allowance. 



Flip SLIP POCKET piece up, away from the zipper.


Fold SLIP POCKET wrong sides together down to meet bottom of FRONT on the back of the pocket, leaving about 1-inch reveal/overlap at top of zipper. 


Topstitch along zipper fold and topstitch along top fold of reveal.


Place CENTER PANEL right-side-up on surface, and place constructed pocket right-side-up on top of CENTER PANEL with approximately one-inch of the CENTER PANEL showing at the top. Pin and baste on sides and bottom of pocket. Trim.

You can increase the length of the CENTER PANEL and add wings to the sides of the pocket to make it fit the size of the pattern piece to which you wish to add the slip/zip pocket.

Here is a photo of the assembled slip/zip pocket piece for the medium-sized Noodlehead "Plover" with wings added on either side to fit the pattern piece. Finished size of panel piece: 8 x 10-inches.

Here is a photo of the assembled slip/zip pocket piece for the small-sized Noodlehead "Plover" with wings added on either side to fit the pattern piece. Finished size of panel piece 8 x 5.5-inches.

Update October 20, 2026:

This pocket variation is based on a design from the Noodlehead "Firefly Tote". Another slip/zip pocket design is also featured in a new pattern from Ora Rosa Patterns, the "Cora Convertable" as well as other patterns from that source.

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