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| Purl Soho Cross-back Apron, regular sized, front view |
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| Purl Soho Cross-back Apron, regular sized, back view |
by Linda Theil
This is the Purl Soho Cross-back Apron featured on their website at
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/11/20/cross-back-apron.
Their page includes complete directions for making this one-size-fits-most apron with large, side-pockets and cross-back straps. This retro apron is so nicely made and looks so much like the apron my grandma wore in the Nineteen-fifties that I had to make one for my friend who appreciates the nostalgia and the beauty of this design.
Although this apron pattern, as published, can adjust to several sizes from 2-10; I also made a larger option, adjusting the width of the pattern pieces to accommodate up to size 16 and up. Size adjustment may also be made by varying the length of the straps.
These notes are a record of my experience with the pattern, and should only be viewed as commentary; your results may vary.
For both layouts, I used cotton fabric with an all over pattern -- meaning there is no up or down, left or right, direction of the fabric.
Standard, basic-sized Purl Soho Cross-back Apron
For the standard size, I used the pattern pieces as indicated on the Purl Soho site. I cut six 8.5-inch cuts the width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge and one 13-inch cut the width of the fabric selvedge to selvedge.
This layout takes a little less than 1-7/8 yards of fabric. Cutting across the grain is not standard procedure for clothing layout, but I thought the ease of cutting made this choice an acceptable option for me — especially since the drape and fit of the apron was not a major consideration for me.
To cut the pattern pieces, I used two of the 8.5-inch cuts for the straps, and I used the other four 8.5-inch cuts to lay out the pocket/sides and back using the diagram on the pattern that indicates the measurements of each pattern piece. I cut the front piece to the length indicated in the cutting diagram on the Purl Soho site.
For the straps, the standard pattern uses two 8-inch wide pieces cut from selvedge to selvedge across the width of the fabric, or about 42-inches long. The instructions indicate that the apron should be tried on and straps fitted to the wearer, varying the length of the straps as appropriate. In general, they cut the strap to a finished length of 28.5-inches, plus adding about 3.5-inches for the insertion method they use for a total of about 32-inch long straps. They indicated in the comment section of the post that sewists could add about one-half inch to strap length for each size up from this basic length for a size 2-4. If possible, the straps should be fitted to size the apron, but it may be useful to sewists to have a general idea of the standard strap length, especially since those 42-inch-long straps seem mighty long at first glance.
A note on the pockets
These pockets are cute, but are a little tricky to assemble -- mostly because you are making seams but really can't picture what you are sewing. I've made this pattern twice, and both times have made errors in the pocket construction and had to rip out a seam. You have to be vigilant!
That is one of the things I like about this apron: it looks so pure and simple; yet the design is full of intrigue and complexity. Like those crazy wide straps! Who needs two-inch-wide straps! Yet their width is necessary to their function; and the look is so iconic. And don't get me started on all those wonderful flat-felled seams!
If you want to do some fancy color blocking, or work with panel prints, it is helpful to know that pocket-pattern-piece C is the side panel of the apron that lies closest to the body. Piece B is the inside of the pocket. And piece A is the outside of the pocket that shows on the outside of the apron.
Layout for large-sized pattern
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| Purl Soho Cross-back Apron large sized, front view |
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| Purl Soho Cross-back Apron, large sized, back view |
Since I wanted a larger apron, and several people on the Purl Soho site asked about a larger-sized apron, I created a layout for an apron the should fit up to size 16 comfortably. This layout takes 2-1/8 yards of fabric.
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| Layout for Purl Soho Cross-back Apron, LARGE size |
I cut the straps to the standard 8-inches wide across the widt of my fabric. The fabric I used is "Sugar Rush" by Dan Morris for RJR Fabrics in 2012.
I also cut four 10.5-inch widths for the back and pocket pieces, and one 15-inch width for the apron front -- as shown in the diagram above.
I then followed the Purl Soho instructions exactly as published, using a 29-inch finished length for my straps.
This went together fine and kept the proportions of the apron as created for the original pattern. It also fit just fine.
This proportion apron fits a pretty wide range of larger sized cooks!
UPDATE Jan. 6, 2019
Purl Soho Cross-back Apron in white cotton with border print: "In the Garden" Double Border #7148 designed by Carol for Daisy Kingdom, Inc. Printed with Pride in the USA in 1994.
Update: October 26, 2021
This interesting and helpful information was shared on the Purl Soho comments to their apron instruction page:
Instructions for making a child size Purl Soho apron
- Claire Ashwell says:December 11, 2020 at 4:26 pm
I created a children’s version today. Turned out perfectly according to your directions.
The finished width is 24 inches and it is 22 inches long.
Height from pocket to top of front is 4 1/2 inches
Back – 17 inches high X 6 inches wide
Front – 26 inches high X 8 inches wide
Pocket A – 15 1/4 inches high X 11 1/4 inches wide
Pocket B – 10 1/4 inches high X 14 inches wide
Pocket C – 20 1/2 inches high X 16 1/4 inches wide
All the seams and hems are the same dimensions as this pattern.
Thought I would share, as this pattern was free for me and so appreciated.
Tie – 5 inches X the width of the fabric.
reply - Claire Ashwell says:December 11, 2020 at 11:14 pm
Just realized that the measurements I gave are incomplete for the pockets, PLUS Pocket A was off by a bit.
Pocket A – 16 1/2 inches on highest side
12 1/2 on the short side
6 inches wide
Pocket B – 10 1/4 inches on the short side
14 inches on the highest side
6 inches wide
Pocket C – 20 1/2 inches on the highest side
16 1/4 inches on the short side
6 inches wide.
Comments
I am so grateful to you for these comments. I am about to make a batch of these for myself first and then for 4 girlfriends from Uni. We're meeting next month for the last of our annual birthday celebrations - we have all reached the grand old age of 60 in the last year. These aprons will be a perfect present for everyone.
The first prototype is made. Happy to send a photo for your blog, if you let me have an email address. I managed to get the first pocket right and then got the second one wrong and had to undo it - how did I manage that? Other than that it all went together very well. I've added post on the Purl Soho web page with some minor comments on the dimensions of the pockets and the 'topstitching'.
I'm excited to get on now and make the others. I suppose this has taken me 3-4 hours in total, including marking and cutting out the fabric.
Best wishes
Julie
Best wishes
Gill
I see what you mean that although the directions say to cut a 10.5-inch-wide pocket, and the grid layout of the pattern shows a 10.5-inch-wide pocket, the handwritten label on that piece could be read as "12.5" inches wide. I have gone to the original drawing and tried to make the zero appear more solid so that it cannot be misread, and rephotographed and inserted the new photo into the post.